The Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria is the largest protected area of flooded forest in the Peruvian Amazon and one of the most biodiverse on earth. In the Loreto region, it wraps around the courses of the Marañón and Ucayali rivers across an immense plain that floods with the rains every year, creating a maze of lagoons, cochas and channels known as 'the jungle of mirrors', for the way the water reflects the sky and the vegetation.
Its biodiversity is staggering: more than a thousand vertebrate species, an enormous share of all the wildlife in Peru. Amazonian manatees live here, along with pink and gray dolphins, giant otters, monkeys, black caimans, the paiche (one of the largest freshwater fish in the world), charapa turtles and endless birds. It is also the territory of local communities that take part in running it and in conservation programs, such as turtle recovery and sustainable fishing.
This isn't a place you drop into: visiting takes time, a licensed tour and a guide. You enter through SERNANP control posts, going by boat from Nauta (near Iquitos) or from the town of Lagunas, on the Huallaga river. Programs usually run several days, with nights in camps or communities, walks, boat trips and wildlife watching. The best time depends on the water level, and you should come ready for heat, humidity, mosquitoes and total immersion in nature.
Pacaya-Samiria was first protected in 1972 as a Reserved Zone and formally established as a National Reserve on 4 February 1982, through Supreme Decree No. 016-82-AG, which expanded it to more than 2,080,000 hectares to conserve humid tropical forest ecosystems. Today it is one of Peru's largest national reserves, and it is managed by combining strict protection with sustainable use by local communities, through resource management programs for charapa turtles, paiche and aguaje. More detail on the history page.
Read the full history ↓The vast Amazonian region of the northeast: lowland rainforest of endless rivers, cradle of the rubber boom, home of Iquitos —the largest city in the world that cannot be reached by land— and the setting of the Leticia conflict.
Read the history of Loreto →No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.
Origins, formation and what the sources say.
In northeastern Peru, in the Loreto region, there is a vast plain where land and water trade places with the seasons. This is the Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, the largest protected area of flooded forest in the Peruvian Amazon, more than two million hectares stretching between the great Marañón and Ucayali rivers. Every year, during the rainy season, the rivers burst their banks and flood enormous swathes of jungle, creating a world of lagoons, channels and reflections that locals call 'the jungle of mirrors'.
That pulse of water -rising and falling with the seasons- is the key to the whole ecosystem. When the rivers rise, fish scatter through the flooded forest, seeds travel and life multiplies; when they drop, beaches, cochas (oxbow lakes) and stretches of dry ground appear. This dynamic makes Pacaya-Samiria one of the most productive and biodiverse places on the planet, home to a staggering number of species.
The reserve takes its name from two of its main rivers, the Pacaya and the Samiria, which wind across the plain. More than a park, it is a living system of waters, forests and communities, where nature sets the pace and where people have learned, over generations, to live in step with the flood.
Long before any legal protection was declared, the plain between the Marañón and the Ucayali was the territory of the Cocama-Cocamilla Indigenous peoples, who built up deep knowledge of the high-water and low-water cycle, of fishing for paiche and of the resources of the flooded forest. Their calendar doesn't run on fixed months but on the river rising and falling: they know when the water invades the forest and scatters the fish, when it pulls back and leaves closed lagoons where paiche get trapped, when charapa turtles lay their eggs on the beaches that emerge. That ancestral relationship with the water and the forest is the foundation of the reserve's community management programs today, and it explains why you can't understand how Pacaya-Samiria is run without its people, organized in dozens of riverside communities inside and around the protected area.
For much of the 20th century the region went through the economic cycles typical of the Peruvian Amazon. First the rubber boom in the early 1900s, which drew bosses and laborers across Loreto and subjected many Indigenous peoples to brutal exploitation. When rubber collapsed, logging followed and, above all, commercial hunting for skins: the mass killing of giant otters, black caimans, jaguars and other animals to supply the international hide market severely thinned the wildlife by mid-century. Paiche, fished without any control because of its huge size and prized meat, and charapa turtles, whose eggs were collected by the thousand, were among the hardest hit species.
That extractive pressure was precisely one of the reasons Peruvian authorities began to consider formal protection for the area. The Pacaya river basin, with its enormous concentrations of aquatic wildlife, was already seen in the 1960s as a biological reservoir that had to be saved before it was too late. Out of that concern the reserve would be born, step by step.
Legal protection for this Amazonian plain came in stages. The earliest precedent was Supreme Decree No. 210-68-AG, of 10 October 1968, which set aside the Pacaya river basin from its headwaters to its mouth. Shortly after, on 25 February 1972, the Pacaya-Samiria Reserved Zone was declared through Supreme Decree No. 06-72-PE, a first step toward formal conservation of the area.
Finally, on 4 February 1982, through Supreme Decree No. 016-82-AG, the area was officially established as the Reserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, expanding it to 2,080,000 hectares, with the explicit aim of conserving flora and fauna resources as well as the scenic beauty characteristic of the region's humid tropical forests. At that size it became one of the largest protected natural areas in Peru and in the South American Amazon.
Since it was created, Pacaya-Samiria has established itself as one of Peru's largest and most emblematic national reserves, managed today by SERNANP (the national protected areas service). The biodiversity numbers are emphatic: it holds more than a thousand vertebrate species, an enormous share of all the wildlife in the country and in the Peruvian Amazon. Among them are emblematic and threatened species such as the Amazonian manatee, river dolphins, the giant otter, the black caiman, the paiche -one of the largest freshwater fish in the world- and charapa turtles, plus hundreds of birds. That richness has made it one of the world's great nature destinations.
What sets Pacaya-Samiria apart isn't only its wildlife but its management model. The reserve is not uninhabited: Cocama-Cocamilla communities and others live inside and around it and have been brought into its management. Through sustainable-use programs -recovery of charapa turtles, paiche management, responsible aguaje harvesting- local people become allies of conservation, showing that protecting the forest and living off it can go together. The model has been cited as an example at international forums on community conservation.
Since the early 2000s, nature tourism has become a growing source of income for local communities and an additional conservation tool: every visitor who pays the entry fee and hires licensed guides and operators helps fund the reserve's protection and creates work that is an alternative to hunting and logging. Today most visitors arrive from Iquitos, via Nauta, or from Yurimaguas, via the town of Lagunas.
Despite the progress, the reserve faces persistent challenges: poaching and illegal fishing, pressure from extractive activities in nearby areas, and the effects of climate change on the rainfall regime and the flood pulse the whole ecosystem depends on. The reserve's master plan, updated periodically by SERNANP in coordination with the communities, aims to balance strict conservation against the local population's development needs, a central challenge for every large protected area in the Amazon.