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Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve
🇪🇨 Ecuador · Sierra (Andean Highlands)

Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve

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📌Province/State
Provinces of Imbabura (Andean sector) and Esmeraldas (tropical Chocó sector)
📌Best time to go
June to September in the highlands (dry season, better visibility); the coastal sector is rainy almost all year
📌Suggested days
1 to 2 days in the Andean sector (Cuicocha); several days with planning for the Chocó sector
📌Currency
US dollar (USD)
📌Getting there
Andean sector: from Cotacachi/Otavalo, 30-50 min from the Cuicocha lagoon. Chocó sector: from Borbón (Esmeraldas), by river
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🌤️ Weather in Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve
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The Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve is one of the largest and most important protected areas in Ecuador, an enormous conservation corridor running from the high Andean páramo around the Cotacachi volcano (in Imbabura) down to the humid tropical forests of the Chocó, on the Pacific side (in Esmeraldas). That strip, covering thousands of meters of elevation change, holds extraordinary biodiversity.

The reserve is named after its two extremes: the Cotacachi volcano, in the highlands, and the Cayapas river area, in the humid tropical forest of the northern coast, home to the Afro-Ecuadorian people and the Chachi Indigenous nationality. Between those two poles lie páramo, lagoons (such as Cuicocha), cloud forests and Chocó rainforest, one of the richest biodiversity hotspots on the planet.

This guide covers the essentials of the reserve: its Andean sector, accessible and well set up for visitors (with the Cuicocha lagoon and Cotacachi's páramo, near Otavalo), and its tropical Chocó sector (far more remote, rainforest and community tourism), explaining how and from where you visit each part and what you can see in one of Ecuador's most diverse reserves.

📖 History of Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve

The reserve was created to protect one of the most complete ecological gradients in South America, from Andean páramo to the tropical forest of the Chocó. Its Andean sector centers on the Cotacachi volcano and the Cuicocha lagoon, sacred places for the Kichwa peoples of Imbabura; its western, rainforest sector is the ancestral territory of the Afro-Ecuadorian people and the Chachi nationality. The full version is on our history page.

Read the full history ↓

🏛️ Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve is in Imbabura

The «Province of the Lakes» in the northern sierra and the first Unesco Global Geopark in Ecuador: land of the caranquis and otavalos who resisted the Inca at Yahuarcocha, cradle of the most famous Indigenous market in the Americas and of weavers known around the world, with Ibarra —the «White City»— and the lakes of Cuicocha, San Pablo and Yahuarcocha at the foot of its volcanoes.

Read the history of Imbabura →

🗺️ What to see

1
Cuicocha lagoon
A spectacular crater lagoon of blue-green water with two islets, at the foot of Cotacachi.
The reserve's star and most accessible attraction is the Cuicocha lagoon, a crater lake about 3 km across with deep blue-green water and two islets at its center, formed in an old volcanic caldera at the foot of Cotacachi. Its name, from Kichwa, is associated with 'guinea pig lagoon' because of the shape of its islets. It is a place of great beauty and deep sacred value for the Kichwa peoples of Imbabura. You can take a boat ride on the lagoon (which loops around the islets) or walk the trail that circles the crater, with spectacular viewpoints. The páramo setting, with frailejones and high-altitude vegetation, rounds out the experience. It's a few minutes from Cotacachi and Otavalo.
ℹ️ Distance: 15-20 min from Cotacachi, 30-40 min from Otavalo · Entry: Admission to the reserve is free (MAATE); boat ride US$ 3–5 per person (verified July 2026) · Best time: In the morning, with clear skies (dry season) · Duration: Half a day
2
Cuicocha crater trail
A high-altitude hike that skirts the entire caldera of the lagoon.
For the more active, the great classic is the trail that goes all the way around the Cuicocha crater (the self-guided 'Máximo Gorki Campuzano' trail), a trek of about 12-14 km and 4-5 hours, with climbs and stretches made demanding by the altitude (around 3,000-3,400 m). The route offers continuous views of the lagoon, the islets, the Cotacachi volcano and, on clear days, other snowcapped peaks of the highlands. It is one of the most beautiful panoramic trails in the northern Andes. Do it early, bring water, sun protection, warm layers and a rain jacket, and be at least minimally acclimatized to the altitude. There is a short initial section (to a viewpoint) suitable for anyone who doesn't want the full loop.
ℹ️ Distance: 12-14 km around the caldera (altitude 3,000-3,400 m) · Entry: Free (open access) · Best time: Dry season (June-September) and in the morning; set out early · Duration: 4-5 hours (full loop)
3
Cotacachi volcano and its páramo
The mountain that gives the reserve its name, with high páramo and mountain routes.
The Cotacachi volcano (4,944 m), affectionately called 'Mama Cotacachi' by the Kichwa peoples, dominates the landscape of the reserve's Andean sector. Its summit, which sometimes wakes up under snow, is a target for mountaineers (a technical ascent requiring a guide and gear), while its páramo slopes offer more accessible walks among frailejones, smaller lagoons and polylepis woodland. The mountain is a sacred place in the local Andean worldview, associated with a feminine figure who converses with the masculine Imbabura. For the visitor, looking at it from Cuicocha or Cotacachi and walking its páramo is an essential part of the experience.
ℹ️ Distance: It dominates the Andean sector; views from Cuicocha and Cotacachi · Entry: Free admission; the summit (4,944 m) only with a guide and gear · Best time: Dry season, clear mornings · Duration: Half a day (páramo) or a full-day technical ascent
4
The town of Cotacachi and its leather
A craft town famous for its leather industry, the base for the Andean sector.
A few minutes from Cuicocha is the town of Cotacachi, known across Ecuador for its leather craft tradition: its main street (Avenida 10 de Agosto) is lined with shops selling jackets, bags, belts, shoes and good-quality leather goods at competitive prices. It's an almost obligatory shopping stop. Cotacachi is also a quiet town of Indigenous and mestizo roots, with its square, its church and an active cultural life; it has been recognized for its intercultural governance. It makes a comfortable, pleasant base for exploring the Andean sector of the reserve.
ℹ️ Distance: 15-20 min from the Cuicocha lagoon · Entry: Walking the town is free; leather from US$ 15–25 (bags/belts) to US$ 60–150 (jackets) (verified July 2026) · Best time: Any day; weekends are busier for shopping · Duration: Half a day (or the base for the visit)
5
Tropical Chocó sector (Cayapas rivers)
Chocó rainforest in Esmeraldas, with exceptional biodiversity and community tourism.
The western sector of the reserve, in Esmeraldas province, is a completely different world: humid tropical forest of the Chocó, one of the regions with the highest biodiversity and endemism on the planet, crossed by rivers such as the Cayapas. It is a remote area, hard to reach, rainy almost all year, where the forest holds an astonishing diversity of plants, birds, amphibians and mammals. This part of the reserve is the ancestral territory of the Afro-Ecuadorian people and the Chachi Indigenous nationality, who maintain their culture, their traditions and their relationship with the forest and the rivers. Visits are usually made through community tourism initiatives, traveling the rivers from the Borbón area, and require more logistics and time than the Andean sector.
ℹ️ Distance: Access by river from Borbón (Esmeraldas), several hours of boat travel · Entry: Admission to the reserve is free; river transport and guide within the community package · Best time: Rainy almost all year; plan with operators or communities · Duration: Several days
6
Birdwatching and biodiversity
One of Ecuador's richest reserves for birds, from páramo to the Chocó.
The enormous altitudinal gradient of Cotacachi-Cayapas makes it an exceptional destination for watching birds and wildlife. In the Andean sector, the páramo and high forests are home to hummingbirds, guans, condors and torrent ducks; in the cloud forest transition you find tanagers, toucanets and the Andean cock-of-the-rock. In the Chocó sector, one of the planet's endemism hotspots, the diversity of birds is astonishing, with species exclusive to that biogeographic region. Touring the reserve with nature guides —in either of its two sectors— is a first-rate experience for anyone who loves biodiversity.
ℹ️ Distance: In both sectors (Andean páramo and tropical Chocó) · Entry: A naturalist guide is recommended: US$ 30–60 per group/half day (verified July 2026) · Best time: At dawn, when birds are most active · Duration: Half a day to a full day
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What nobody tells you

💵 Prices

Tickets

TypePrice
Admission to the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve (Cuicocha/Cotacachi)Free (open access; Ecuador's mainland protected areas do not charge admission, MAATE policy). Sign in at the ranger post (source: MAATE / ViajandoX, verified July 2026)
Boat ride on the Cuicocha lagoonUS$ 3–5 per person (a ride of ~25-30 min among the islets; source: Crónicas Argonauta / Goraymi, verified July 2026)
Naturalist guide (optional)US$ 30–60 per group/half day (source: Otavalo/Cotacachi guides, verified July 2026)
Visit to the Chocó sector (community tourism)Varies by package and community; check with operators in Borbón/Esmeraldas (usually includes river transport, guide and basic lodging; verified July 2026)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

Activities and tours

ActivityPriceDurationOperator
Cuicocha crater trailFree (optional guide US$ 30–60 per group)4-5 h (12-14 km)On your own or with Otavalo/Cotacachi guides
Boat ride on the Cuicocha lagoonUS$ 3–5 per personAbout 30 minBoatmen at the Cuicocha dock
Community tourism in the Chocó (Cayapas)Varies; check with operators (multi-day packages with river transport included)Several daysAfro and Chachi communities / specialist operators
Bird and wildlife watchingUS$ 30–60 per person/half day with a specialist guide (indicative 2025)Half a day to a full dayLocal nature guides
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
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🚌 How to get there and distances

Getting around

ModePriceDurationNotes
Cooperative pickup/taxi Cotacachi → CuicochaUS$ 5–7 one way (13 min); US$ 8–15 round trip with waiting time; paid in cash (source: Rome2Rio / Crónicas Argonauta, verified July 2026)13-20 minThe easiest way up to the lagoon. Cotacachi's pickup cooperatives (Cotataxi, Santa Ana, Quiroga, Ecocotacachi) go as far as the dock; agree on the wait and the return trip
Bus Otavalo → Cotacachi (and the cheap option to the lagoon)US$ 0,35–0,50 for the bus, in cash; then a community truck ~US$ 0,50 or a minivan to the lagoon (source: buscobus.ec / Crónicas Argonauta, verified July 2026)20-30 min + connectionImbabura's intercity buses (Flota Imbabura, Cotacachi, Otavalo) are paid in cash as you board. The cheap route to Cuicocha is to get off in Quiroga and take a truck/minivan up to the lagoon entrance; there is no direct scheduled service to the dock
App to check routes and planFree (Google Maps / Moovit)To plan trips between Otavalo, Cotacachi and Ibarra and check timetables, Google Maps or Moovit work. There is no electronic card or QR on Imbabura's buses: everything is paid in cash (source: Moovit / Flota Imbabura, verified July 2026)
Canoe/river boat (Chocó sector)Depends on the route; usually included in the community packageVariable (several hours)Access to the tropical sector is by river, in local boats from Borbón
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

How to get there

RouteAirlines / operatorsAvg. priceDuration
Quito → Otavalo/Cotacachi (bus)Coop. Otavalo, Los Lagos (Carcelén Terminal)US$ 2,50–3 per personAbout 2.5 to 3 h
Otavalo/Cotacachi → Cuicocha (Andean sector)Taxi/pickup; toursUS$ 8–15 each way by taxiAbout 20-50 min
Esmeraldas/Borbón → Chocó sector (Cayapas rivers)Bus to Borbón + river transportBus to Borbón US$ 6–10; river transport depending on the packageVariable (several hours)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

🏨 Where to stay

No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.

CategoryPriceRecommended options
Budget hostels in Cotacachi/Otavalo$$$$$US$ 15-35 a room. Hostels listed in the national registry, in Cotacachi: Hostal Casal Sant Patricia (Modesto Peñaherrera and Bolívar 12-46), Hostal El Arbolito (Imbabura and Rocafuerte 9), Hostal Kimbala (Bolívar and 9 de Octubre) and, in Quiroga, on the way to Cuicocha, Hostal El Chagra (Vacas Galindo and Eloy Alfaro). no rate published in an official source.
Country lodges and mid-range hotels in the area$$$$$US$ 40-80 a night. Listed in the national registry: Hotel Land of the Sun (García Moreno and Sucre 13-87), Hotel La Cuadra (Modesto Peñaherrera and González Suárez 11) and, as country lodges, Oro Azul (road to La Calera, San Ignacio sector), Jora Continental (Sucre and Segundo Luis Moreno 476) and Finca San Alejandro (Quiroga). In the Intag valley, Royal Nature Intag (Apuela) and Quinta Buganvillas Intag (Nangulví Bajo, Peñaherrera). no rate published in an official source.
Haciendas and boutique hotels (Imbabura)$$$$$US$ 90-200 a night. The only place to stay in Cotacachi canton that the registry classifies in the top tier is La Mirage Garden Hotel & Spa (Alberto Moreno and Dolores Cacuango, San Francisco parish), a restored hacienda a few blocks from the center. no rate published in an official source.
Community lodging (Chocó sector)$$$$$Community lodging in the Chocó sector. A sourced fact: the national registry LISTS NO TOURIST ACCOMMODATION in the Afro and Chachi communities of the Cayapas and San Miguel rivers. It is arranged directly with the communities or with the reserve's administration; no establishment identified in an official source and no rate published in an official source.

🍴 Where to eat

TypePriceOptions / signature dish
Andean cooking (highland sector)$$$$$US$ 4-10 a dish. In Cotacachi canton, the Andean gateway to the reserve, the MINTUR registry lists these higher-category restaurants: El Leñador (Sucre and Juan Montalvo 10-12), Pastes El Minero (Imbabura and Pedro Moncayo 933) and, already in Quiroga parish on the way to the lagoon, Restaurante Cuicocha (main street). Cotacachi is famous for carnes coloradas and hornado. no rate published in an official source: the registry does not publish prices.
Restaurants and cafés in Cotacachi$$$$$US$ 8-18 a dish. Listed in the registry, in central Cotacachi: La Marqueza (10 de Agosto and Bolívar 12-65), El Jardín (Pedro Moncayo and Luis Ulpiano de la Torre), El Mesón de Pedro (10 de Agosto and Pedro Moncayo 11-40), Van Danam Indian Restaurant (García Moreno and Rocafuerte) and La Casa del Turista (Bolívar and 9 de Octubre 13-02). no rate published in an official source.
Afro-Esmeraldas cooking (coastal sector)$$$$$US$ 5-12 a dish. An honest heads-up: in the coastal sector of the reserve (the Cayapas and San Miguel rivers, Eloy Alfaro canton) the national registry lists no tourist restaurants. Afro-Esmeraldas encocado cooking is eaten in community dining rooms with no formal registration, so there is no official source to back up names or prices on that stretch.
Eateries and markets$$$$$US$ 2–5; cheap set lunches and snacks in the markets of Cotacachi and Otavalo
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📖 History of Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve

Origins, formation and what the sources say.

From the Andes to the Chocó: one of the richest gradients on the planet

Picture a single protected area where, within a few dozen kilometers as the crow flies, you go from freezing páramo above 4,000 meters —with crater lagoons and cold-country vicuñas— to stifling rainforest almost at sea level, home to jaguars and poison dart frogs. That headlong descent, one of the most complete on the planet, is the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve, which protects a continuous gradient from the Imbabura Andes to the forests of the Chocó on the Pacific side. Anyone able to cross it end to end would pass through páramo, Andean forest, cloud forest and tropical rainforest, a succession of ecosystems that very few places in the world hold within a single unit.

That variation in altitude, climate and environment translates into exceptional biodiversity. The western sector is part of the biogeographic Chocó, one of the regions with the greatest species richness and endemism on the planet, where heavy rainfall and complex terrain produce an explosion of life: countless species of plants, birds, amphibians, insects and mammals, many of them exclusive to this strip and found nowhere else on Earth.

The reserve was created precisely to conserve that ecological continuity and the immense biodiversity it holds. Its name joins its two extremes: the Cotacachi volcano, in the Imbabura highlands, and the basin of the Cayapas rivers, in the forests of Esmeraldas. That duality —páramo and rainforest, highlands and coast, cold and heat— is the essence of the reserve and what makes it one of the most important and singular natural areas in Ecuador.

The peoples of the reserve: Kichwa, Afro-Ecuadorian and Chachi

The reserve is not only nature: it is also the territory of peoples with deep historical roots. In the Andean sector, around the Cotacachi volcano and the Cuicocha lagoon, live Kichwa communities of Imbabura, heirs of the ancient peoples of the northern Andes. For them, the Cotacachi volcano —often presented as a feminine figure, 'Mama Cotacachi'— and the Cuicocha lagoon are sacred places, the setting for rituals and for a worldview that links mountains, water and life.

In the western sector, in the Chocó rainforest and the basin of the Cayapas and Santiago rivers, the land has been inhabited since ancestral times by the Afro-Ecuadorian people —descendants of enslaved Africans who, from colonial times, formed free communities in this remote coastal region— and by the Chachi Indigenous nationality (historically known as 'Cayapas'). Both peoples developed a deep relationship with the forest and the rivers, the basis of their livelihood, their culture and their identity.

This human presence, far from being alien to the reserve, is part of its value. Traditional knowledge about the forest, river management practices and cultural expressions —Afro-Esmeraldas marimba, Chachi crafts, Andean rituals— are living heritage of the protected area. The community tourism that some of these communities are developing seeks, today, to share that cultural wealth and at the same time to sustain the conservation of the territory.

Creation of the reserve and conservation challenges

Faced with the ecological value of this strip linking the Andes to the Pacific, the Ecuadorian state protected it for the first time on 29 August 1968, making it one of the oldest protected areas in the country; in 1979 it was formally folded into the national system as an ecological reserve, with an initial area of some 204,420 hectares. Later expansions (2002 and 2017) took the reserve past 270,000 hectares, cementing it as one of the largest in mainland Ecuador. The aim was to conserve both the gradient of ecosystems and the river basins, the threatened species and the landscapes of páramo, cloud forest and Chocó rainforest.

Managing an area this vast and diverse is not without challenges. The Andean sector, accessible and popular with visitors, has to balance the flow of tourists —above all at Cuicocha— with protecting the fragile páramo. The Chocó sector, far more remote, faces long-standing threats such as deforestation, the expansion of the agricultural frontier, mining and pressure on community lands. Conservation of this part of the reserve is closely tied to respect for the rights and ways of life of the Afro-Ecuadorian and Chachi peoples.

Today, Cotacachi-Cayapas is still one of the jewels of Ecuador's natural heritage and a symbol of the country's diversity: a single reserve holds the cold Andean páramo with its crater lagoons and the warm, humid Chocó rainforest with its rivers and communities. For the traveler, it offers two very different experiences —high-altitude hiking and community-run tropical rainforest— under the same protective mantle.

Cuicocha and Cotacachi: sacred geology

The emblem of the reserve's Andean sector, the Cuicocha lagoon, is at once a geological phenomenon and a place loaded with cultural meaning. It formed some 3,000 years ago, when a violent explosive eruption on the southern flank of the Cotacachi volcano emptied the magma chamber and left a large caldera that filled with water over time. Its two central islets —Teodoro Wolf and Yerovi— are lava domes that emerged in later eruptions. The volcanic system is still considered potentially active, and in fact gases seep up from the bottom of the lagoon, a sign that the volcano is not entirely asleep.

For the Kichwa peoples of Imbabura, Cuicocha and Cotacachi are part of a sacred geography. The mountain, 'Mama Cotacachi', is a feminine deity who converses with the masculine Taita Imbabura; tradition tells stories of loves and jealousies between the mountains that explain the snows and the rains. The lagoon is the setting for rituals, purifying baths during festivals such as Inti Raymi, and Andean ceremonies that acknowledge the power of the hills and the water.

That dual nature —a living volcanic caldera and a sanctuary of the Andean worldview— makes Cuicocha far more than a beautiful landscape: it is a place where the deep geology of the Earth and the spirituality of Indigenous peoples meet. Knowing that dimension enriches the visit enormously.

📚 Bibliography

  • Wikipedia (ES) — «Reserva ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas»: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reserva_ecol%C3%B3gica_Cotacachi-Cayapas
  • Wikipedia (EN) — «Cotacachi Cayapas Ecological Reserve»: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotacachi_Cayapas_Ecological_Reserve
  • Wikipedia (ES) — «Chocó biogeográfico»: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choc%C3%B3_biogeogr%C3%A1fico
  • Wikipedia (ES) — «Chachi»: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chachi_(etnia)
  • Wikipedia (ES) — «Afroecuatorianos»: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Afroecuatorianos
  • Wikipedia (ES) — «Cuicocha»: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuicocha
  • Wikipedia (ES) — «Cotacachi (volcán)»: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotacachi_(volc%C3%A1n)
  • Wikipedia (EN) — «Cuicocha»: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuicocha
  • Ministerio del Ambiente, Agua y Transición Ecológica (MAATE) — Áreas Protegidas: https://www.ambiente.gob.ec/
  • Ministerio de Turismo del Ecuador (Ecuador Travel): https://www.ecuador.travel/

❓ Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to enter the reserve?+
Admission to the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve is free, as in all of Ecuador's mainland protected areas (Ministry of the Environment policy, 2025). You would only pay for optional services: the boat ride on Cuicocha (US$ 3–5), a guide (US$ 30–60 per group) or, in the Chocó, the community tourism package.
What is the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve?+
It is one of the largest protected areas in Ecuador, running from the Andean páramo of the Cotacachi volcano (in Imbabura) to the humid tropical forest of the Chocó and the Cayapas rivers (in Esmeraldas). It protects one of the most complete ecological gradients in South America and extraordinary biodiversity.
Which of the two sectors gets more visitors?+
The Andean sector, around the Cuicocha lagoon and the Cotacachi volcano, is the most accessible and the most visited, a few minutes from Otavalo and Cotacachi (taxi US$ 8–15). The tropical Chocó sector is remote, rainy and hard to reach, and is visited mostly through community tourism with advance planning.
Can you do the Cuicocha crater trail?+
Yes. It's a trek of 12-14 km and 4-5 hours that circles the whole caldera, with spectacular views of the lagoon and Cotacachi. It's demanding because of the altitude (3,000-3,400 m); set out early, be acclimatized and bring water, warm layers and a rain jacket. Anyone who doesn't want the full loop can just do the viewpoint section.
How do you visit the Chocó sector (Cayapas)?+
It's a rainforest area reached by river, in local boats, generally from Borbón (Esmeraldas). Visits are usually organized through community tourism initiatives of the Afro-Ecuadorian and Chachi peoples, and they require logistics, time and preparation for humidity and rain.
What's the best time to go?+
For the Andean sector, the dry season (June to September) offers better weather and visibility. The Chocó sector is rainy almost all year, so plan the visit with local operators or communities and come prepared for the humidity.
How do I get to Cuicocha and how do I pay for transport?+
The most practical option is a pickup from Cotacachi's cooperatives (Cotataxi, Santa Ana, Quiroga): about US$ 5–7 one way (13 min) or US$ 8–15 round trip with waiting time, all in cash. The cheap option is to take an Imbabura intercity bus (US$ 0,35–0,50, also cash), get off in Quiroga and ride a community truck or minivan up to the lagoon entrance. Imbabura's buses have no electronic card or QR: you pay in cash as you board. To plan routes and timetables between Otavalo, Cotacachi and Ibarra, Google Maps or Moovit will do. The Chocó sector, by contrast, is reached by river from Borbón in boats arranged by the community operator.
Sources consulted (12)
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Image credits
Photos from Wikimedia Commons, each under its own licence (CC BY, CC BY-SA or public domain). Open each file to see its author and licence.
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