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Mohéli Marine Park
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Mohéli Marine Park

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📌Country
Union of the Comoros (Comores), Indian Ocean, between Madagascar and East Africa. Mohéli Marine Park protects the southern coast of Mohéli (Mwali), the smallest and wildest island in the country, right in the Mozambique Channel.
📌What it is
The first national park in the Comoros, created in April 2001. It protects some 404 km² of Mohéli's southern coast (beaches, rocky shores, islets, coral reefs and mangroves) and is a refuge for green turtles that nest at night, humpback whales, dolphins, dugongs and incredibly rich marine life. Since 2020 it has been part of a UNESCO biosphere reserve.
📌Best time
The cool dry season, from May to October, is ideal: calmer seas, good visibility for snorkelling, and it coincides with the humpback whales (July to October). Green turtles nest all year round, with seasonal peaks. The rainy season (November to April) is hot and humid, with a risk of cyclones.
📌Getting there
Fly from Moroni (Grande Comore) to Mohéli (Bandar Es Eslam airport, in Djoezi, near Fomboni) in under half an hour. From Fomboni, go overland to the south coast (Nioumachoua, Itsamia), and from there take a boat into the park. Many visitors stay at a lodge in the area, such as Mohéli Laka Lodge, which organises the excursions.
📌Language and currency
Languages: Comorian (Shimwali on Mohéli), French and Arabic. Currency: Comorian franc (KMF), pegged to the euro; in 2024 it was around 450 KMF to the dollar and about 492 KMF to the euro (check when you visit). Payment is in cash; bring enough francs from Fomboni, as there are hardly any places to withdraw money on the south coast.
📌Suggested duration
At least 2 or 3 days to make the most of it: a day of snorkelling and boating around the islets, a night of turtle watching in Itsamia and, in season, a whale-watching trip. It combines well with the rest of Mohéli (Lake Boundouni, Fomboni).
📌Management
The park is co-managed by the coastal village communities together with the State, through a management committee in which the villages hold the majority. It is a pioneering model of community-based conservation that has brought back corals, turtles and fish, and it was a finalist for the UN Equator Prize in 2002.
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🌤️ Weather in Mohéli Marine Park
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Mohéli Marine Park is the natural jewel of the Comoros and one of the great conservation stories of the Indian Ocean. Created in 2001 as the country's first national park, it protects the southern coast of the archipelago's wildest island: a mosaic of sandy beaches, islets, coral reefs and mangroves where thousands of green turtles nest, humpback whales pass through and species as rare as the dugong survive.

What makes this park unique is not just its biodiversity, but the way it is protected: it is the coastal village communities themselves who, together with the State, manage the reserve, patrol the nesting beaches and organise ecotourism. This community conservation model brought the reefs back to life, multiplied the beaches where turtles nest and even doubled fish catches, earning Mohéli international recognition.

This guide explains what you can see (green turtles nesting at night, humpback whales between July and October, dolphins, living reefs for snorkelling), how to organise your visit from Fomboni or from a lodge on the south coast, when to go and how to do it responsibly, so that your visit helps protect this fragile paradise.

📖 History of Mohéli Marine Park

Mohéli Marine Park was created in April 2001 as the first national park in the Comoros, covering some 404 km² of the island's southern coast. It grew out of a pioneering process in which local communities, with support from UNDP, UNEP and IUCN, decided to protect their reefs, turtles and whales from overfishing and destruction. Within a few years corals and wildlife had recovered, and in 2020 it became part of a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Its full story is told on the history page.

Read the full history ↓

🏛️ Mohéli Marine Park is in Mohéli (Mwali)

The smallest, wildest and least populated island: birthplace of the accord that refounded the country and home to its first marine park, with green turtles, whales and living reefs.

Read the history of Mohéli (Mwali) →

🗺️ What to see

1
Green turtles nesting at night
Mohéli is one of the largest green turtle (Chelonia mydas) nesting sites in the Indian Ocean. At night, on beaches such as those at Itsamia, you can watch (with community guides, and without lights or noise) as the females come out of the sea to lay hundreds of eggs in the sand. An unforgettable experience.
2
Humpback whales (July–October)
Between July and October, around two hundred humpback whales arrive in Mohéli's warm waters to breed and raise their calves. With luck, on boat trips you'll see them breaching and spot mothers with their calves, one of the archipelago's great natural spectacles.
3
Snorkelling on the coral reefs
The park protects reefs with hundreds of species of coral and fish. Around the Nioumachoua islets, coral heads, sea fans and sponges make snorkelling a delight, with turquoise water and some of the best marine life in the western Indian Ocean.
4
The Nioumachoua islets
A string of sand-and-reef islets off the south coast, with white beaches where turtles nest and colonies of flying foxes. They are the park's signature landscape and the base for snorkelling trips (see their own page).
5
Dugongs and dolphins
The park's waters are home to a small and highly endangered population of dugongs (sea cows) that graze on the underwater seagrass meadows, as well as dolphins that are often seen on boat trips. Spotting a dugong is very rare and very lucky.
6
Livingstone's flying fox
The forests near the coast are home to Livingstone's flying fox, a giant bat endemic to Anjouan and Mohéli, with a wingspan of almost 1,4 m and critically endangered. It is one of the rarest mammals in the world.
7
Mangroves and seabirds
The park protects mangroves and is home to seabird colonies. It is a key ecosystem as a fish nursery and a refuge for biodiversity, and you can explore it by boat while watching the birdlife.
8
Itsamia village and its turtle sanctuary
Itsamia, in the east, is the village that pioneered turtle protection: its beaches are watched over by the community and biologists, and it offers community bungalows where you can spend the night and go out to see the nesting.
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What nobody tells you

💵 Prices

Tickets

TypePrice
Tasa de acceso / conservación del parqueA conservation contribution is paid when doing excursions inside the park; the amount goes to the community management (check when you visit, 2024)
Observación de tortugas en ItsamiaContribution to the Itsamia community association for the guided night visit (check the amount when you visit, 2024)
Guía localApprox. 5.000–20.000 KMF (US$ 11–45) per group depending on the activity (2024 reference, check when you visit)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

Activities and tours

Boat trip around the park and the Nioumachoua islets with snorkelling
DurationHalf day to full day
OperatorSouth coast lodges and guides
Price
Depending on the lodge/operator; usually around 30.000–80.000 KMF (US$ 65–175) per boat/group, plus park fee (2024, check when you visit)
Night-time green turtle nesting watch (Itsamia)
DurationNight
OperatorItsamia Association / guides
Price
Contribution to the community association; to be arranged on the island (2024, check when you visit)
Humpback whale-watching trip (Jul–Oct)
DurationHalf day
OperatorLodges and local fishermen
Price
Depending on the operator; boat trip to be arranged (2024, check when you visit)
Scuba diving in the marine park
DurationHalf day
OperatorLodges offering diving (e.g. Laka Lodge)
Price
Depending on the centre/lodge; prices vary widely (2024, check when you visit)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

🚌 How to get there and distances

Getting around

Boat / motorised pirogue
PriceDepending on the excursion and operator (see activities)
DurationVariable
Notes
Essential for exploring the park and the islets and for whale watching; hired through lodges or Nioumachoua fishermen
Taxi-brousse (shared)
DurationApprox. 1 h
Price
Fomboni–south coast from about 1.000–3.000 KMF (US$ 2–7) per person (2024, check when you visit)
Notes
For getting overland from Fomboni to Nioumachoua or Itsamia; slow and only leaves once full
Private taxi / car with driver
DurationTo be agreed
Price
Transfer or full day from about 15.000–40.000 KMF (US$ 33–88), to be negotiated (2024, check when you visit)
Notes
Comfortable for reaching the coastal villages; many lodges arrange the transfer from the airport
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

How to get there

RouteAirlines / operatorsAvg. priceDuration
Moroni (Grande Comore) → Mohéli (Bandar Es Eslam airport, Djoezi)AB Aviation and other Comorian domestic airlinesDomestic flight; depends on airline and date (check when you visit, 2024)About 20–30 minutes' flight
Fomboni → south coast (Nioumachoua / Itsamia)Taxi-brousse, private taxi or lodge transferFrom about 1.000 KMF shared; transfer to be negotiated (2024, check when you visit)Approx. 1 h
Coast → marine park and isletsLodge and fishermen's boatsDepending on the excursion (see activities)Half-day to full-day trips
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

🏨 Where to stay

No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.

Eco-lodges inside/next to the park
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
Approx. US$ 80–170 per night; the main option is Mohéli Laka Lodge, in Nioumachoua, with seafront bungalows and snorkelling, whale and turtle excursions
Community bungalows (Itsamia and villages)
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
From about US$ 15–30; very basic accommodation run by the communities, ideal for night-time turtle watching and for supporting conservation
Hotels and guesthouses in Fomboni
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
Approx. US$ 25–60 per night; an alternative base in the capital for day trips to the park

🍴 Where to eat

Restaurantes de lodge
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
Approx. US$ 10–25 per person; fresh fish and seafood, langouste when available and Comorian cooking by the sea at the south coast lodges
Comida comunitaria en los pueblos
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
Approx. US$ 3–8 per person; home-cooked meals of rice, fish and mataba in Itsamia and Nioumachoua, often included with community accommodation
Productos del mar y frutas locales
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
Very cheap; freshly caught fish, coconuts and tropical fruit in the coastal villages

📖 History of Mohéli Marine Park

Origins, formation and what the sources say.

A sea of incredible richness, under threat

The south coast of Mohéli is one of those places where nature shows itself at its most abundant. Right in the Mozambique Channel, one of the richest marine corridors on the planet, the warm, shallow waters around this island are home to coral reefs with hundreds of species, seagrass meadows, mangroves and a string of islets. It is a nesting site for green turtles, a route for humpback whales, home to dolphins, a refuge for a small population of dugongs and for seabirds, and for rarities such as the coelacanth, the 'living fossil' fish that survives in the depths off the Comoros.

For centuries, Mohéli's fishing communities lived off that sea sustainably, using traditional techniques. But in the last decades of the 20th century, pressure on resources began to grow dangerously: a rising population, increasingly intensive fishing, destructive methods, the capture of turtles and their eggs, and the degradation of the reefs. The island's marine 'pantry' was running out, and with it the livelihood of the communities themselves. Fishers noticed there were fewer and fewer fish, and that the turtles' nesting beaches were shrinking.

Faced with that threat, in the late 1990s a revolutionary idea for the country emerged: give this marine heritage legal protection before it was too late. But unlike many parks around the world, created 'from above' by governments and sometimes against the wishes of local people, Mohéli chose a different path: making the communities themselves the leading players in conservation. That decision would shape the park's entire history.

2001: the country's first national park

In April 2001, after a long process of consultation and work with the coastal villages, Mohéli Marine Park was officially declared, protecting some 404 km² of the island's south coast: beaches, rocky areas, islets, coral reefs and mangroves. It was the first national park in the history of the Comoros, a milestone for a young country facing enormous difficulties. The project had technical and financial support from international bodies such as the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), the UN Environment Programme (UNEP) and the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

What was truly innovative was the management model. The park was co-managed by the State and the communities of the coastal villages, through a management committee in which the villages held the majority of seats. It was the residents themselves who agreed on the rules — no-take zones, a ban on collecting turtle eggs, controls on destructive fishing gear — and who took charge of enforcing them. Conservation stopped being something imposed from outside and became a community matter, with people seeing the protected sea as their own future.

The results came quickly, and they were spectacular. Within a few years, the badly damaged coral reefs began to recover; catches per fisher rose noticeably as the waters were restocked; and the number of beaches where green turtles nested multiplied. The combination of effective protection and local participation was working. In 2002, just a year after it was created, Mohéli Marine Park was a finalist for the United Nations Equator Prize, which recognises community initiatives in conservation and sustainable development. Little Mohéli was becoming a model for the world.

Turtles, whales and exceptional biodiversity

The park's great symbol is the green turtle (Chelonia mydas). The beaches of southern Mohéli are among the most important nesting sites for this species in the entire Indian Ocean: thousands of females come ashore every year, at night, to lay their eggs in the sand. The village of Itsamia, in the east, became the emblem of this protection: its community association watches over the beaches alongside biologists, protects the nests from predators and poachers, and organises night-time visits so travellers can watch the egg-laying without disturbing it. Once hunted for their meat, the turtles became a treasure that the community looks after and earns income from through ecotourism.

Between July and October, the park hosts another of its great spectacles: the arrival of the humpback whales. Around two hundred of these giants migrate to Mohéli's warm waters to breed and raise their calves. Watching them breach from a boat, or seeing a mother swimming with her calf, is one of the most impressive experiences the Indian Ocean has to offer. They are joined by dolphins, manta rays and other open-ocean species that frequent these waters.

But the park's biodiversity goes far beyond that. Its reefs are home to hundreds of species of coral and fish; in its seagrass meadows survives one of the most threatened dugong populations on the planet; in the nearby forests lives Livingstone's flying fox, a giant, critically endangered endemic bat; and its islets host seabird colonies. This exceptional combination led, in 2020, to the area being included in a UNESCO biosphere reserve, an international recognition of Mohéli's natural value and of its model of coexistence between people and nature.

Current challenges and the future of conservation

Mohéli Marine Park is a success story, but not one without difficulties. Funding is always precarious, the country is poor and the pressure on resources never goes away: the temptation of illegal fishing, turtle hunting or taking sand from the beaches comes back in times of scarcity. Keeping up patrols, equipment and community motivation year after year is an ongoing challenge, and it depends on ecotourism and institutional support continuing to deliver tangible benefits to local people.

Climate change adds new threats: coral bleaching as the sea warms, rising water levels eroding the nesting beaches, and increasingly intense cyclones. Protecting Mohéli no longer depends only on what is done on the island, but also on global forces far beyond it. Even so, the park remains a living laboratory of solutions, and its experience has inspired plans to create new protected areas across the rest of the Comoros archipelago.

For travellers, knowing this story transforms the visit. Swimming over a recovered reef, watching a turtle lay her eggs under the watchful eye of the people of Itsamia or spotting a whale with her calf isn't just tourism: it's witnessing one of the most remarkable examples of community-based conservation in Africa. Every fee paid, every guide hired, every rule respected helps keep this model going. Mohéli Marine Park shows that when communities own their natural heritage, protecting the sea and making a living from it can go hand in hand.

📚 Bibliography

  • Wikipedia (FR) — «Parc marin de Mohéli»: https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parc_marin_de_Moh%C3%A9li
  • Wikipedia (EN) — «Mohéli National Park»: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moh%C3%A9li_National_Park
  • Mongabay (FR) — «Twenty years after the Comoros' first national park, 5 more are planned»: https://fr.mongabay.com/2022/06/vingt-ans-apres-la-creation-du-premier-parc-national-des-comores-5-autres-sont-prevus/
  • Ramsar — Protected sites of the Comoros: https://rsis.ramsar.org/
  • Tourisme Comores — Mohéli: https://tourismecomores.com/iles/moheli
  • Mohéli Laka Lodge — Activities and conservation: https://www.lakalodge.com/
  • Wikipedia (EN) — «List of protected areas of the Comoros»: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_protected_areas_of_the_Comoros
  • IUCN / UNEP — Marine conservation programmes in the Comoros (reference): https://www.iucn.org/
  • Britannica — «Comoros»: https://www.britannica.com/place/Comoros

❓ Frequently asked questions

When can I see turtles and whales?+
Green turtles nest on the park's beaches all year round, with seasonal peaks; watching takes place at night with community guides, mainly in Itsamia. Humpback whales pass through between July and October, during their breeding season, and are sought out on boat trips. July to October is the best window to combine both.
How do I visit the park responsibly?+
Always with local guides, following the rules: during nesting, no torches or flash, don't touch the turtles or hatchlings, and keep quiet and at a distance. When snorkelling, don't stand on or touch the coral, don't leave rubbish and don't buy turtle or coral souvenirs. Paying the park fees is key: they fund community conservation.
Do I need to know how to dive?+
No. The big accessible attraction is snorkelling around the Nioumachoua islets, suitable for anyone who can swim. Some lodges also offer scuba diving for certified divers. Whale and turtle trips don't require getting in the water, just the boat ride and the night walk along the beach.
Where should I stay to visit the park?+
The most comfortable option is a south coast lodge such as Mohéli Laka Lodge, in Nioumachoua, inside the park, which organises all the excursions. For turtle watching, many people sleep in the Itsamia community bungalows. You can also base yourself in Fomboni and do day trips, although that means more travelling.
What is the park's community management?+
Mohéli Marine Park is a pioneer because it isn't run by the State alone: the coastal village communities take part in managing and patrolling it through a committee in which they hold the majority. They protect the nesting beaches, control fishing and organise ecotourism. The model brought back corals, turtles and fish, and was a finalist for the UN Equator Prize in 2002.

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Image credits
Photos from Wikimedia Commons, each under its own licence (CC BY, CC BY-SA or public domain). Open each file to see its author and licence.
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