📌Where it is
In central Rio de Janeiro, between Glória, Santa Teresa and the historic Centro. Its symbol is the Arcos da Lapa, the old colonial Carioca aqueduct.
📌Getting there
Metro Lines 1 and 2 to Cinelândia or Carioca stations, ten minutes on foot; the VLT to Carioca or Cinelândia; and dozens of bus routes from the Zona Sul.
📌How much time to spend
An hour by day for the Arcos and the Escadaria Selarón; a whole night if you're coming for the samba, which starts around 21:00 and goes on until the early hours.
📌Best time
Thursday to Saturday night, when the neighbourhood is in full swing. By day, any time works: the Arcos and the staircase look best in daylight.
📌Currency and prices
Brazilian real (R$). Walking around the neighbourhood is free; the samba houses charge an entrance fee or a minimum spend, and the street bars are cheap.
📌Language
Portuguese. At the more touristy music venues, some staff get by in English and Spanish.
📌What surprises most
The scale of the Arcos: 42 stone arches from the 18th century, with the Santa Teresa tram crossing on top and a street party underneath.
📌Watch out for
The night. Lapa is safe if you stick to busy streets, carry only what you need and head back by taxi or ride-hailing app; it's not an area to wander around alone in the early hours.
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🌤️ Weather in Lapa and the Arcos da Lapa
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Lapa is the neighbourhood where Rio lets its hair down. By day it's a junction of downtown avenues with a huge colonial aqueduct in the middle; at night, from Thursday to Saturday, it turns into the most famous street party in Brazil: live samba spilling out of every doorway, people dancing on the pavement, caipirinha sellers on the corner and the lit-up Arcos presiding over it all.
The Arcos da Lapa are the symbol: 42 stone arches built in the 18th century to carry water from the Carioca river to the city centre, and converted in 1896 into a viaduct for the Santa Teresa tram, which still crosses them today. Around them are the Circo Voador, the Fundição Progresso, the Sala Cecília Meireles, the historic samba houses and bars where bands play without a stage. Five minutes away, the Escadaria Selarón climbs up towards Santa Teresa.
Here we tell you how to experience the neighbourhood: what to see by day, how the samba houses work and what they usually charge, which nights are best, how to get there by metro and get back without any drama, and how to link Lapa with the Escadaria Selarón and Santa Teresa in a single route. Plus what a brochure won't tell you: how to get around at night without handing over your phone.
📖 History of Lapa and the Arcos da Lapa
The name comes from the old hermitage of Nossa Senhora do Desterro da Lapa, in an area that until the 18th century was a suburb of beach and mangroves on the edge of the colonial city. Its emblematic structure, the Aqueduto da Carioca —the Arcos da Lapa—, was completed in the mid-18th century to carry water from the Carioca river, from the Serra de Santa Teresa down to the Largo da Carioca: 42 double arches of stone and mortar, around 270 metres long and 17 metres high at their tallest point. When the aqueduct stopped serving its hydraulic purpose, in 1896 it was adapted as a railway viaduct for the Santa Teresa tram, a use it keeps to this day. In the early 20th century, Lapa was the heart of Rio's bohemian life: cabarets, gambling houses, brothels, malandros in white suits and the newborn samba, portrayed in popular music and literature. After decades of decline in the mid-century, the neighbourhood was revitalised from the 1990s onwards with the arrival of music venues such as the Circo Voador and the Fundição Progresso and the return of samba to the bars of Rua do Lavradio and Avenida Mem de Sá. Today it is Rio's main nightlife hub and one of the few places where couples dance samba every week.
🗺️ What to see
Tours nearby, in Rio De Janeiro
If you only have one day, take a guided tour on the first one: it sets up the rest of your trip and saves you a lot of walking. We look ours up on Civitatis: guided in Spanish and booked online with no fuss. They have over 50 activities in Rio De Janeiro. And there are free tours here: you book without paying and tip the guide whatever you think at the end, so trying one costs you nothing. Three are below so you get the idea: tap any of them and they all open.
They depart from Rio De Janeiro, 1 km away. If you book from this link we earn a commission and you pay no more.
1
The Arcos da Lapa (Aqueduto da Carioca)
The colonial aqueduct of 42 stone arches, now the viaduct for the Santa Teresa bondinho and the visual centrepiece of the neighbourhood.
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The Arcos are the image of Lapa: a double row of 42 white stone arches running right across the neighbourhood, around 270 metres long and 17 metres high at their tallest point. They were finished in the mid-18th century to supply water to the colonial centre, bringing it from the Carioca river on the slopes of Santa Teresa.
When the city modernised its water system, the structure fell out of use until 1896, when it was turned into a viaduct for the Santa Teresa tram, which still crosses on top in full view: it's one of the most photogenic urban crossings in Brazil. At night they're lit up and serve as the backdrop to the street party.
Getting there: metro to Cinelândia or Carioca and ten minutes on foot. Best time: by day to see them in detail, at night for the atmosphere. Tips: the best full view is from the pavement on Avenida Mem de Sá.
2
The samba houses and Lapa by night
The most famous nightlife circuit in the country: live samba, gafieiras, forró and choro in bars and music venues around the Arcos.
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From Thursday to Saturday, Lapa transforms. Around the Arcos, along Avenida Mem de Sá, Rua do Lavradio and the nearby streets, dozens of bars and music venues open with live bands: traditional samba, samba de raiz, choro, forró and gafieira, the partner dance whose temple is in this neighbourhood. Many venues are in old mansions with two or three floors and a dance floor.
The best-known ones charge an entrance fee or a minimum spend, generally affordable, and some have music from early on. Out on the street, meanwhile, there are caipirinha and food stalls and people dancing without going in anywhere: that's the other plan, free and just as valid.
Getting there: on foot from Cinelândia or Carioca; a taxi is more convenient at night. Best time: Thursday to Saturday, from 21:00. Tips: bring cash and ID, leave everything else at the hotel and head back in a car booked through an app.
3
Five minutes from the Arcos: the 215 tile-covered steps by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón, one of the most photographed public works in Brazil.
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The staircase climbing from Rua Joaquim Silva up towards Santa Teresa is a must on any Lapa walk. Jorge Selarón, a Chilean artist based in Rio, began covering it with tiles in 1990 and carried on for more than twenty years, paying for the materials by selling his paintings and receiving pieces sent by visitors from more than sixty countries.
There are 215 steps along roughly 125 metres, in a mosaic that keeps changing colour and texture. It's free to access and has no opening hours, though it's best to visit early, when it's almost empty. Selarón died on the steps themselves in January 2013, and the staircase remains as a finished work and a place of tribute.
Getting there: five minutes on foot from the Arcos, along Rua Joaquim Silva. Best time: between 8 and 10 in the morning. Tips: the steps get slippery in the rain; wear soft-soled shoes.
4
The Circo Voador, the Fundição Progresso and the Sala Cecília Meireles
The venues that brought the neighbourhood back to life: concerts, circus, theatre and chamber music, all just metres from the Arcos.
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Beneath the Arcos stands the Circo Voador, an iconic concert venue of Rio culture since the 1980s, where whole generations of Brazilian artists have played and which still puts on concerts almost every week. Next door is the Fundição Progresso, an old factory turned cultural centre with circus, dance and music schools and a large concert hall.
A few blocks away, the Sala Cecília Meireles is Rio's historic chamber music hall, with a programme of classical and popular concerts at affordable prices. Between the three of them they cover almost the whole spectrum: from a night of Brazilian rock to a piano recital.
Getting there: steps from the Arcos da Lapa. Best time: depends on the programme; check the listings before you go. Tips: for big shows, buying your ticket in advance saves you queuing at the door.
5
Rua do Lavradio and its antiques fair
One of the oldest streets in the neighbourhood, with 19th-century mansions, restaurants, antique shops and a monthly street fair.
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Rua do Lavradio keeps the layout and many of the façades of 19th-century Rio. Today it's a street of antique shops, bars with live music, restaurants in old mansions and workshops. Once a month, usually on the first Saturday, it hosts the Feira do Rio Antigo: the street is closed to traffic and fills up with stalls selling antiques, records, furniture, clothes and food, with bands playing in the open air.
It's one of the best daytime plans in Lapa and a different way to see the neighbourhood, without the intensity of the night. The bars open early and the fair runs into the afternoon.
Getting there: three blocks from the Arcos. Best time: fair Saturday; check the date for the month. Tips: bring cash in small notes, it's a street fair.
💵 Prices
Tickets
| Type | Price |
|---|
| Arcos da Lapa y calles del barrio | Free. It's a public space, always open |
| Escadaria Selarón | Free, no ticket office or opening hours |
| Casas de samba y bares con música en vivo | They charge an entrance fee or a minimum spend; each venue sets its own price, which varies a lot depending on the night and the band. There's no official rate to check: it's best to look up the listings and price on each venue's website or social media |
| Circo Voador y Fundição Progresso | Tickets per show, sold at the box office and on online platforms; the price depends on the artist |
| Sala Cecília Meireles | Concerts with affordable tickets and free events on some dates (a public venue of the State of Rio) |
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
Activities and tours
| Activity | Price | Duration | Operator |
|---|
| Samba night at the Lapa samba houses | Entrance fee or minimum spend depending on the venue | One night | The neighbourhood's samba houses and gafieiras |
| Partner samba or gafieira class | Depends on the school; several venues hold a class before the dance | 1 to 2 h | Local dance schools |
| Free walking tour of Lapa, Selarón and Santa Teresa | Pay what you like | 2 to 3 h | Local guides |
| Feira do Rio Antigo on Rua do Lavradio | Free entry | Half a day | Stallholders and shopkeepers on the street |
| Concert at the Circo Voador or the Fundição Progresso | Depends on the show | One night | Local venues |
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
🚌 How to get there and distances
Getting around
NotesCinelândia and Carioca are the nearest stations, about ten minutes on foot from the Arcos. The metro doesn't run in the early hours on weekdays (source: MetrôRio, verified 22/09/2026)
NotesHandy for combining Lapa with Praça XV, Central do Brasil and the port area (source: VLT Carioca / Motiva, verified 22/09/2026)
NotesMany routes from the Zona Sul pass through Glória and Lapa; fewer run at night
Taxi and ride-hailing apps
Variable fare
NotesThe recommended way to get back in the early hours. On the busiest nights, it's worth walking a couple of blocks to a quieter street so the car can stop
NotesThe whole Arcos-Selarón-Lavradio circuit can be done on foot. The climb to Santa Teresa is steep and best done by day
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
How to get there
| Route | Airlines / operators | Avg. price | Duration |
|---|
| Copacabana / Ipanema → Lapa | MetrôRio Line 1 to Cinelândia | R$ 7,90 | 25 to 35 min |
| Historic centre → Lapa | On foot or VLT | Free / R$ 5,00 | 10 to 15 min |
| Santa Teresa → Lapa | Bondinho to Carioca station or walk down | Bondinho ticket / free | 20 to 35 min |
| Santos Dumont Airport (SDU) → Lapa | Taxi, apps or VLT + walk | Variable / R$ 5,00 | 10 to 20 min |
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
🏨 Where to stay
No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.
Hostels in Lapa and Glória
Recommended optionsThe neighbourhood and its surroundings are packed with hostels aimed at a young crowd, practical for going out at night without relying on transport. Ask for a room at the back: at weekends the street is noisy until the early hours.
Recommended optionsHotels geared towards business travel that drop their prices at weekends, ten or fifteen minutes' walk from the Arcos.
Guesthouses in Santa Teresa
Recommended optionsUp above the neighbourhood, old mansions turned into guesthouses offer peace and views, with Lapa a short taxi ride away.
Recommended optionsIf you'd rather sleep near the beach, Flamengo and Catete are a few metro stops away and Copacabana half an hour.
🍴 Where to eat
Options / signature dishChopp, pastéis, bolinho de bacalhau and Saturday feijoada in traditional bars on Mem de Sá and Lavradio; this is the neighbourhood's culinary base.
Casas de samba con cocina
Options / signature dishSeveral music venues serve Brazilian food while the band plays; it's worth booking a table at weekends.
Restaurantes de la Rua do Lavradio
Options / signature dish19th-century mansions converted into restaurants serving Brazilian and contemporary cuisine, with inner courtyards and live music.
Options / signature dishCaipirinha, churrasquinho, pastel and hot dog stalls around the Arcos, which appear at nightfall and are part of the scenery.
❓ Frequently asked questions
What are the Arcos da Lapa?+
It's the Aqueduto da Carioca, a colonial aqueduct completed in the mid-18th century to carry water from the Carioca river to the city centre: 42 double stone arches, around 270 metres long and 17 high. Since 1896 it has served as the viaduct for the Santa Teresa tram, which still crosses on top. It's the symbol of the neighbourhood and free to see, day and night.
Which nights are best for Lapa?+
Thursday to Saturday, from 21:00. That's when all the samba houses open, there are live bands and the street fills up. From Sunday to Wednesday the neighbourhood is much quieter and several venues close; by day, on the other hand, you can visit any day to see the Arcos and the Escadaria Selarón.
How much does it cost to get into a samba house?+
It depends on the venue, the night and the band: almost all of them charge an entrance fee or a minimum spend, and there's no official rate that can be checked with a public body. Prices are usually affordable compared with nightlife in other capitals. Check the listings and price on the venue's social media before you go, and bring cash just in case.
Is Lapa safe at night?+
It's a busy neighbourhood with a police presence on lively nights, but it's also a crowded urban centre where opportunistic theft happens. The rules are simple: stick to busy streets, carry the bare minimum, keep your phone put away, no jewellery or large backpacks, and head back by taxi or ride-hailing app instead of walking in the early hours.
How do I get there by public transport?+
By metro, get off at Cinelândia or Carioca (Lines 1 and 2) and walk about ten minutes; a fare costs R$ 7,90. The VLT also gets there (R$ 5,00, from 5:00 to 23:00), as do many municipal bus lines (R$ 5,00). For the trip back in the early hours, the metro doesn't run on weekdays: plan on a taxi or app.
Can I combine it with the Escadaria Selarón and Santa Teresa?+
That's the recommended route. The staircase is five minutes from the Arcos and ends at the foot of Santa Teresa; from the neighbourhood you can come down by bondinho to Carioca station or on foot. The usual plan is to do Selarón and Santa Teresa by day and come back to Lapa at night for the samba.
Is there anything to do in Lapa during the day?+
Yes: the Arcos, the Escadaria Selarón, Rua do Lavradio with its antique shops and, once a month, the Feira do Rio Antigo, which closes the street and fills it with stalls and music. There are also chamber music concerts at Sala Cecília Meireles and shows at Circo Voador and Fundição Progresso.
Sources consulted (6)
- MetrôRio — Meios e Tarifas (R$ 7,90 since 12/04/2026): https://www.metrorio.com.br/ComoPagar/MeiosTarifas
- VLT Carioca / Motiva — fare R$ 5,00, service from 5h to 23h: https://trilhos.motiva.com.br/redir/vltrio/
- Secretaria Municipal de Transportes do Rio — bus fares (R$ 5,00 since 4/01/2026): https://transportes.prefeitura.rio/historico-das-tarifas/
- Wikipedia (ES) — «Arcos de Lapa»: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arcos_de_Lapa
- Wikipedia (PT) — «Lapa (Rio de Janeiro)»: https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapa_(bairro_do_Rio_de_Janeiro)
- Admission to samba houses and bars has no verifiable official price: each venue sets its own and it changes from night to night, which is why this guide doesn't publish figures.
