📌Where it is
In the heart of Rio de Janeiro's Zona Sul, surrounded by the neighbourhoods of Lagoa, Ipanema, Leblon, Jardim Botânico, Gávea and Humaitá, with Corcovado and the Dois Irmãos all around.
📌How to get there
Metro Line 4, Jardim de Alah station, a few blocks from the water; many bus lines also stop nearby, and the cycle path runs in from Ipanema and Leblon.
📌How much time to spend
An hour and a half to cycle the full loop; two or three hours if you add a kiosk stop and the sunset.
📌Best time to go
Sunset, all year round, when the sun drops behind the hills and the kiosks light up. In December the floating Christmas tree goes up, a city classic.
📌Currency and prices
Brazilian real (R$). Walking or cycling around it is free; you pay for bike or pedalinho hire and whatever you order at the kiosks.
📌Language
Portuguese; at the kiosks and hire stands there's usually someone who can get by in English or Spanish.
📌What surprises people most
That it's a saltwater lagoon connected to the sea, with rowers training at dawn, right in the middle of the most expensive neighbourhood in Brazil.
📌Watch out for
The stretches of cycle path shared with runners and skaters, especially at weekends. And the sun: there's little shade along much of the loop.
💱 BRL exchange rate
Loading rate…
🌤️ Weather in Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas
Loading weather…
The Lagoa is the Zona Sul's backyard and, for many people, the best place in Rio to do nothing at all. It's a brackish lagoon connected to the sea by the Jardim de Alah canal, ringed by a loop of about seven and a half kilometres with a cycle path, running track, parks, sports courts and a row of kiosks that light up at sunset. All around are the hills: Corcovado with Christ the Redeemer on one side, the Dois Irmãos on the other.
By six in the morning the rowers are already training (the rowing and canoe sprint events of the 2016 Olympic Games were held here), runners are doing laps and people are walking their dogs. In the afternoon come the swan-shaped pedalinhos and families in the parks, and when the sun goes down, the kiosks with live music, Japanese, Arab or Brazilian food and open-air tables facing the water. In December, the floating Christmas tree turns the lakeside into an annual date for the whole city.
This guide shows you how to make the most of it: where to hire a bike, how long the full loop takes, which parks surround the lagoon, where to eat best, how to get there by metro and what to combine nearby (the Jardim Botânico and Parque Lage are minutes away). It's free, it's public and it never closes.
📖 History of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas
The lagoon takes its name from Rodrigo de Freitas Melo e Castro, owner of the sugar mill that occupied this land in the 18th century and whose grounds would later become the Jardim Botânico. It was originally a much larger coastal lagoon, surrounded by mangroves and separated from the sea by a strip of sand. From the late 19th century and throughout the 20th, successive landfills and urban works shrank its surface and gave it its current shape, while the Jardim de Alah canal was built (opened in the 1920s) to connect its waters with the ocean and renew the exchange with the sea. The canal opened in 1920, and with the urbanisation of Ipanema, Leblon and Lagoa, the lagoon ended up surrounded by some of the most sought-after neighbourhoods in Brazil. For decades its water quality was a chronic environmental problem, with episodes of mass fish deaths, and sanitation is still on the public agenda. The perimeter became the great linear park of the Zona Sul: it is home to historic rowing clubs, parks such as Parque dos Patins and Parque do Cantagalo, a cycle path of around 7.5 kilometres and dozens of food kiosks. During the Rio 2016 Olympic Games, the Lagoa hosted the rowing and canoe sprint competitions, with grandstands set up along its banks.
🗺️ What to see
Tours nearby, in Rio De Janeiro
If you only have one day, take a guided tour on the first one: it sets up the rest of your trip and saves you a lot of walking. We look ours up on Civitatis: guided in Spanish and booked online with no fuss. They have over 50 activities in Rio De Janeiro. And there are free tours here: you book without paying and tip the guide whatever you think at the end, so trying one costs you nothing. Three are below so you get the idea: tap any of them and they all open.
They depart from Rio De Janeiro, 8 km away. If you book from this link we earn a commission and you pay no more.
1
The full loop around the lagoon
The roughly 7.5 km ring with a cycle path and running track around the lagoon: the Zona Sul's great outdoor circuit.
Leer más ↓
Going around the Lagoa is the signature activity here: about seven and a half kilometres of flat circuit, with a separate cycle path and a track for running and walking, hugging the water the whole way. By bike it takes between forty minutes and an hour with stops; running, a bit longer; walking, around two hours.
The scenery keeps changing: on the Ipanema side you get the buildings and the canal; on the Gávea side, the Jockey Club and the mountain; on the Jardim Botânico side, the trees and Corcovado peeking out. Dawn and sunset are the best times to enjoy it, with the whole city sharing the same path.
How to get there: any point on the perimeter; Jardim de Alah metro. Best time: first thing in the morning or at sunset. Tips: there are public bike-share stations at several points around the loop.
2
The kiosks and the sunset
The row of food kiosks along the shore, with open-air tables, live music and views of the water and the hills.
Leer más ↓
The Lagoa kiosks are a Carioca institution: open-air bars and restaurants set right on the water's edge, many with themed cuisines (Japanese, Arab, Brazilian, Italian) and live music as evening falls. You can ride up on a bike, drop everything and sit down for a drink while the sun sinks behind the hills.
The busiest ones are at Parque dos Patins, on the Ipanema and Leblon side, and around Corte do Cantagalo. There are options at every price point, from a beer and a snack platter to a full dinner. It's a night out with no need to book or dress up.
How to get there: along the perimeter, with access from Ipanema, Leblon or Jardim Botânico. Best time: from 17:00 onwards. Tips: they fill up at weekends; arrive before sunset to pick your table.
3
Pedalinhos and rowing
The swan-shaped pedal boats that cross the lagoon, and the rowing clubs training from early morning on the 2016 Olympic water.
Leer más ↓
The classic outing with kids is the pedalinho: pedal boats, many shaped like swans, hired by the hour at authorised spots around the perimeter, which let you head out into the middle of the lagoon with the hills all around. It's simple, cheap and one of the best photos of the trip.
At the same time, the Lagoa is the historic home of Carioca rowing: the traditional clubs have their boathouses on the shore and crews train at dawn. It was the Olympic venue for rowing and canoe sprint in 2016, with grandstands set up along the banks.
How to get there: hire spots along the perimeter, mainly on the Ipanema and Leblon side. Best time: late afternoon, with the sun low. Tips: each operator sets its own pedalinho price and charges by time; ask before you get on.
4
Parque dos Patins, Cantagalo and the green spaces
The parks around the lagoon: lawns, playgrounds, sports courts, shade and the morro do Cantagalo lookout with views over the beaches.
Leer más ↓
The perimeter takes in several public parks. Parque dos Patins, on the Avenida Borges de Medeiros side, is the busiest, with kiosks, fairs and space for kids. Parque do Cantagalo and Parque Carlos Jobim, on the Ipanema side, have lawns, playgrounds and shade, and are the starting point for the path up to the morro do Cantagalo lookout, where you can see the Lagoa on one side and the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana on the other.
There are also sports courts, a helipad, clubs and picnic areas. On Sundays the loop fills up with families and groups with mate and cool boxes, feeling more like a neighbourhood park than a tourist attraction.
How to get there: entrances from every avenue around the perimeter. Best time: weekend afternoons. Tips: the Cantagalo lookout is a few minutes from the park and free.
5
The floating Christmas tree and Lagoa events
In December, the illuminated structure set on the water that has become a symbol of the city, plus concerts and sporting events throughout the year.
Leer más ↓
For decades, every December the Lagoa has hosted an illuminated floating Christmas tree, mounted on a structure on the water, which is switched on at an opening night with a show that draws crowds all along the shore. Its size and design change every year, and some editions have been billed as one of the largest floating trees in the world; there have also been years with no tree at all, depending on sponsorship.
The rest of the year, the lagoon is the setting for regattas, running races, fairs and open-air concerts. It's worth checking the city's events calendar before you go, because on event nights parts of the perimeter are closed and access changes.
How to get there: any point on the perimeter. Best time: December for the tree; check the lighting date. Tips: for the lighting, arrive well in advance or watch from the opposite side, which is less crowded.
💵 Prices
Tickets
| Type | Price |
|---|
| Acceso al paseo y a los parques del perímetro | Free. It's a public space, open all year |
| Alquiler de bicicleta | Paid by the hour or with a day pass, depending on the public bike-share system or rental shop you choose; there's no single official rate |
| Pedalinhos | Hired by time at the stands around the perimeter; each operator sets its own price. Ask before you get on |
| Quioscos gastronómicos | You only pay for what you order; options range from a beer to a full dinner |
| Mirador del morro do Cantagalo | Free, with access from Parque do Cantagalo |
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
Activities and tours
| Activity | Price | Duration | Operator |
|---|
| Cycling around the Lagoa | Hourly hire or day pass | 40 to 60 min | Public bike-share and rental shops |
| Running or walking the loop | Free | 1 to 2 h | Open access |
| Pedalinho ride | By time, depending on the operator | 30 min to 1 h | Hire stands around the perimeter |
| Sunset and dinner at the kiosks | Depends on what you order | 2 to 3 h | Concession kiosks |
| Climbing to the morro do Cantagalo lookout | Free | 1 h | Open access |
| Seeing the floating Christmas tree (December) | Free | 1 to 2 h | Annual event, subject to sponsorship |
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
🚌 How to get there and distances
Getting around
NotesJardim de Alah station leaves you a few blocks from the canal and the start of the loop (source: MetrôRio, verified 22/09/2026)
NotesMany lines run along the avenues around the perimeter (Borges de Medeiros and Epitácio Pessoa)
Bike
Hourly hire or day pass
NotesThe natural way to get around it; the cycle path links up with Ipanema, Leblon, Copacabana and the Jardim Botânico
Taxi and ride-hailing apps
Variable fare
NotesYou can do it in sections: from the canal to Parque dos Patins takes about twenty minutes
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
How to get there
| Route | Airlines / operators | Avg. price | Duration |
|---|
| Ipanema / Leblon → Lagoa | On foot, by bike or bus | Free / R$ 5,00 | 10 to 15 min |
| Copacabana → Lagoa | City bus or taxi | R$ 5,00 / variable | 15 to 25 min |
| Centro → Lagoa | MetrôRio (Line 1 + Line 4) to Jardim de Alah | R$ 7,90 | 30 to 40 min |
| Jardim Botânico / Parque Lage → Lagoa | On foot or by bus | Free / R$ 5,00 | 10 min |
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
🏨 Where to stay
No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.
Lagoa and Jardim Botânico
Recommended optionsPricey, quiet residential neighbourhoods with few hotels and plenty of holiday rentals; you sleep with views of the water or the hills.
Recommended optionsA ten-minute walk from the loop, with beach, great food and the metro; the most practical base for combining everything.
Recommended optionsThe budget option in the Zona Sul, twenty minutes from the Lagoa by bus or bike.
Recommended optionsOn the other side of the lagoon, with mid-range hotels, modern hostels and a very good bar scene.
🍴 Where to eat
Options / signature dishThe local speciality: themed open-air kitchens with tables facing the water, from snack platters and beer to sushi and Arab food, with live music in the evening.
Barrio Jardim Botânico y Lagoa
Options / signature dishContemporary Brazilian restaurants and specialty coffee shops on the inner streets, among the best in the city.
Options / signature dishMore informal stalls and kiosks, with fast food, coconut water and ice cream, very popular with families at weekends.
Options / signature dishAcross the lagoon, food markets and chef-driven bars at slightly lower prices, fifteen minutes from the shore.
❓ Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to go around the Lagoa?+
The loop is about 7.5 kilometres. By bike it takes between forty minutes and an hour with stops, running a little under an hour depending on your pace, and walking about two hours. It's flat, signposted and has a cycle path separate from the pedestrian track.
Do you have to pay to get in?+
No. The path, the parks and the viewpoints around the edge are free public space, open all year round. You only pay to hire a bike or a pedal boat and for whatever you buy at the kiosks; each operator sets those prices and there's no official rate.
Can you swim or do water sports?+
Swimming, no: the lagoon has a history of water quality problems and isn't approved for bathing. Rowing and canoeing do happen there, mostly at the traditional clubs along the shore, and it was the Olympic venue for both sports in 2016. For visitors, the water activity on offer is the pedal boat.
What's the best time to go?+
Sunset, no question: the sun drops behind the hills, the kiosks light up and the circuit fills with people. The other good window is early morning, with the rowers out on the water and the air still cool. Around midday there's little shade along much of the loop.
How do I get there by public transport?+
By metro, Line 4, Jardim de Alah station, a few blocks from the canal and the start of the circuit; a ticket costs R$ 7,90. Many city bus routes (R$ 5,00) also run along Avenida Borges de Medeiros and Avenida Epitácio Pessoa, which ring the lagoon.
When is the floating Christmas tree lit?+
In December, on an opening night that's usually announced in advance and draws crowds all along the shore. Whether it goes up depends on each year's sponsorship, and some years there's been no tree. It's worth checking the city's official events calendar before you plan your evening.
What can I combine it with nearby?+
The Jardim Botânico and Parque Lage are ten minutes from the shore, and the beaches of Ipanema and Leblon are fifteen minutes' walk away. A well-rounded plan: the Jardim Botânico in the morning, Parque Lage around midday, then finish the day with a loop of the Lagoa and a stop at a kiosk at sunset.
Sources consulted (6)
- MetrôRio — Meios e Tarifas (R$ 7,90 since 12/04/2026): https://www.metrorio.com.br/ComoPagar/MeiosTarifas
- Secretaria Municipal de Transportes do Rio — bus fares (R$ 5,00 since 4/01/2026): https://transportes.prefeitura.rio/historico-das-tarifas/
- Wikipedia (PT) — «Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas»: https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lagoa_Rodrigo_de_Freitas
- International Olympic Committee — Rio 2016, rowing and canoeing venue at the Lagoa: https://olympics.com/es/olympic-games/rio-2016
- Prefeitura do Rio — parks and leisure areas of the Lagoa: https://prefeitura.rio/
- Bike hire, pedal boats and kiosk purchases have no official published rates: each operator sets its own, so this guide doesn't give figures.
