Aarhus is Denmark's great surprise. The country's second city and the capital of Jutland, for years it stood in Copenhagen's shadow, but today it is one of the most vibrant and creative destinations in Scandinavia. It was European Capital of Culture in 2017, it has one of the largest universities in northern Europe and it brims with youth, design, good music and a food scene that has produced several Michelin-starred restaurants. All of it in a city on a human scale, beside the sea and surrounded by woods and beaches.
Its symbol is the ARoS museum and its 'Your Rainbow Panorama', a ring of coloured glass on the roof that you walk through, seeing the city in every shade of the rainbow, the work of the artist Olafur Eliasson. But Aarhus is much more: the open-air historic village of Den Gamle By, which recreates Danish life in other eras; the spectacular Moesgaard museum, half-buried in a green hill, which holds 'Grauballe Man', an Iron Age body mummified in a peat bog; the longest cathedral in Denmark; and a waterfront reinvented with the award-winning Dokk1 library.
This guide runs through the essentials of Aarhus with a practical eye: what to see, how to get there by train from Copenhagen, how to get around on its light rail and on foot, where to eat in the lively Latin Quarter or the street food market, and how to use it as a base for exploring Jutland. With its Viking roots and its cutting-edge present, Aarhus is the best way to discover that Denmark is much more than its capital.
Aarhus is one of the oldest cities in Denmark and in all of Scandinavia. It was born as a Viking settlement around the 8th century at the mouth of a river, and its name comes from the Old Norse 'Aros', meaning 'river mouth'. Excavations have revealed a prosperous fortified Viking town as early as the 10th century, with ramparts, craftsmen and trade. In the year 948 a bishop of Aarhus is mentioned for the first time, which makes it one of the oldest episcopal seats in the country. In the Middle Ages it prospered as a port and trading town, and its great brick Gothic cathedral was built, dedicated to Saint Clement, patron of sailors. Like many Danish towns, it suffered fires, plagues and the wars against Sweden. Its great take-off came with the Industrial Revolution and, above all, with the arrival of the railway in the 19th century, which made it the economic centre of Jutland. In 1928 Aarhus University was founded, turning the city into a major centre of learning and giving it its youthful character. In the 21st century, Aarhus reinvented itself as a city of culture and design, culminating in its designation as European Capital of Culture in 2017. The full story is on our history page.
Read the full history ↓The great mainland peninsula, cradle of the kingdom: the Jelling stones where Denmark was born, the country's oldest town at Ribe, the Viking cities of Aarhus and Aalborg, the light of Skagen and the birthplace of LEGO in Billund.
Read the history of Jutland →No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.
Origins, formation and what the sources say.
Aarhus is one of the oldest cities in Denmark and in all of Scandinavia, with roots that reach deep into the Viking age. Its very name reveals it: it comes from the Old Norse 'Aros', meaning 'the river mouth', because the town was born right where the Aarhus river (Aarhus Å) flows into the bay, a perfect setting for a port and a sheltered anchorage, on the east coast of the Jutland peninsula.
The first settlements date from the 8th century, but it was in the 10th century that Aros became a Viking town of real importance. Archaeological excavations have revealed that by around 900-950 there was already a fortified urban core, ringed by a semicircular earth rampart, with houses, craft workshops, merchants and harbour activity. Remains of dwellings, tools, coins and objects have been found showing a prosperous community connected to the trade routes of the Viking world, which stretched from the Baltic to the British Isles and beyond. These finds can be seen today in the city's Viking Museum and at Moesgaard.
The importance of Aros was confirmed in the year 948, when the chronicles first mention a bishop of the town, Reginbrand, who took part in a synod in Germany. That makes Aarhus one of the oldest episcopal seats in Denmark, a sign that as early as the time of the first Christian kings it was a place of consequence. The fortification of the town is attributed to the era of King Harald Bluetooth, the monarch who unified and Christianised Denmark in the 10th century.
Through the Middle Ages, Aarhus grew as Jutland's port and trading town, though always on a modest scale, subject to the ups and downs of the age. Its life revolved around maritime trade, fishing and the power of the Church, being an episcopal seat. The town had its merchants, its craft guilds and its churches.
The great symbol of medieval Aarhus is its cathedral, dedicated to Saint Clement, the patron of sailors, very fitting for a port town. Work began towards the end of the 12th century in Romanesque style, but through the 15th century it was transformed and enlarged into the imposing brick Gothic church we see today. It is the longest church in Denmark, at almost 93 metres, and also the tallest, and its tower dominates the city skyline. Inside it preserves medieval frescoes, a magnificent late 15th-century Gothic altarpiece, the work of the master Bernt Notke, and one of the country's great historic organs. The cathedral is the most eloquent testimony to the town's weight in the Middle Ages.
Like so many Danish wooden towns, Aarhus suffered over the centuries the recurring scourges of fires, plague epidemics and wars. Especially hard were the wars against Sweden in the 17th century, during which the town was occupied and sacked by Swedish troops, causing great damage and plunging the population into misery. After every disaster, Aarhus rose again, but for centuries it remained a medium-sized provincial town, far from the brilliance of the capital, Copenhagen.
Aarhus's real leap, from a quiet provincial town to Denmark's second city, came in the 19th century with the Industrial Revolution and, above all, with the arrival of the railway. For centuries, Aarhus had been just one among the kingdom's middling towns; in barely a few decades it became the great economic engine of Jutland and an industrial centre of the first rank.
The expansion of the harbour, which was enlarged and modernised, and the arrival of the railway in the mid-19th century (the first line, around 1862) were decisive. Aarhus became the rail and port hub for the whole Jutland peninsula, the point through which goods came and went, along with the farm produce of the Jutland countryside and the output of the new factories. Industries, mills, breweries, shipyards and workshops were set up, and the population grew rapidly with the arrival of workers from the countryside. The town expanded beyond its medieval core, with new districts, avenues and buildings.
This economic and industrial growth gave Aarhus a new confidence and an identity of its own as the capital of Jutland, a counterweight to Copenhagen, on the island of Zealand at the other end of the country. The friendly rivalry between the two cities, the island capital and the great city of the peninsula, goes back to this period and is still alive today, in good humour.
By the end of the 19th century and the start of the 20th, Aarhus was already a modern, industrial and thriving city, beginning to dream of becoming a centre of culture and knowledge too, a dream that would come true in the following century with the founding of its university.
The 20th century transformed the character of Aarhus for good. The most decisive event was the founding of Aarhus University in 1928, Denmark's second university after Copenhagen. Born of the city's determination to have its own centre of higher learning, the university grew into one of the largest and most prestigious in northern Europe, with its characteristic campus of yellow-brick buildings among hills and parks, the work of Danish architects.
The university changed the city for ever: it drew tens of thousands of students, researchers and young people, and gave Aarhus that youthful, dynamic and open character that defines it today. The city filled with student life, culture, music and a progressive outlook. From being an industrial port city, it also became a city of knowledge.
Like the rest of Denmark, Aarhus lived through the occupation by Nazi Germany during the Second World War (1940-1945). The city was the scene of Danish resistance activity, and it suffered dramatic episodes: in 1944, the British Royal Air Force precision-bombed the Gestapo headquarters, housed in a university building, to destroy its files and protect the resistance, in a celebrated air operation. Liberation came in May 1945.
In the post-war years, Aarhus kept growing as a university, industrial and commercial city, establishing itself as the country's undisputed second city and the capital of Jutland. It expanded with new districts, services and an increasingly rich cultural life, laying the foundations for the transformation that would lead it, in the 21st century, to reinvent itself as one of the most creative cities in Scandinavia.
In recent decades, Aarhus has carried out a spectacular reinvention that has put it on the cultural map of Europe. The city decided to bet on culture, design, architecture and quality of life as the engines of its future, transforming its face and its atmosphere.
That transformation produced memorable milestones. In 2004, the ARoS museum reopened in its new and monumental red-brick building, and in 2011 it was crowned with Olafur Eliasson's 'Your Rainbow Panorama', the rainbow ring that became the city's international symbol. In 2014, the Moesgaard museum unveiled its astonishing green-roofed building half-buried in a hill. In 2015 Dokk1 opened, the largest library in Scandinavia, the emblem of the waterfront's regeneration, alongside cutting-edge new districts such as Aarhus Ø, with its 'Iceberg' building. The old industrial harbour and the river, which had been covered over for decades, were recovered as public spaces full of life.
The recognition came to a head in 2017, when Aarhus was European Capital of Culture, a year of intense artistic programming that projected the city to the world and consolidated its identity as a creative centre. The city has also flourished gastronomically, with several Michelin-starred restaurants and a strong scene of seasonal Nordic cooking, and culturally, with music festivals (NorthSide, the Aarhus Festival), design and art.
Today Aarhus is a fascinating synthesis: the old Viking Aros and its medieval cathedral coexist with the ARoS rainbow, the library of the future and the design districts; the industrial port city has become a young, green, cultured urban centre devoted to design and sustainability, surrounded by woods and beaches. It is the best proof that Denmark has much more to offer beyond Copenhagen, and one of the most pleasant cities to live in and to visit in all of northern Europe.