📌State
Maranhão, north-east Brazil. Barreirinhas is a municipality in the north of the state, on the banks of the Preguiças river and about 260 km from the capital, São Luís. The 2022 IBGE Census counted 65.589 inhabitants. It is known as the 'Portal dos Lençóis Maranhenses' (the gateway to the Lençóis) because it is the most popular base for visiting the Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses: a field of white dunes covering 156.608 hectares that, after the rains, fills with freshwater lagoons between the sand hills. The park was created in 1981 and Unesco inscribed it as a Natural World Heritage Site in 2024. In 2025 it received more than 650.000 visitors, according to ICMBio (the federal agency that manages it). The town itself is small and practical: it has the Avenida Beira Rio with restaurants and the pier, dozens of guesthouses (posadas) and agencies selling 4x4 and boat trips. There are no regular commercial flights, so you get there by road from São Luís, by bus or van, in about four or five hours. From here the excursions leave for Lagoa Azul, Lagoa Bonita, the Preguiças river down to Caburé and the little village of Atins.
📌Best time
The lagoons are formed by the rain. According to the Ministry of Tourism (September 2026), the rainy season runs from February to May and then, between May and September, the Lençóis reach their highest water levels. July and August are usually the sweet spot: full lagoons and little rain. The park is open all year round (ICMBio), but from October to January many lagoons drop or dry up, and the level changes from one year to the next depending on how much it rained. Ask the agency what conditions are like before you book.
📌Park access
ICMBio does not charge admission. What you pay for is the tour. But you cannot drive in on your own: inside the park, only vehicles, drivers and guides (condutores) accredited by ICMBio are allowed. Private cars, motorbikes, buggies, quad bikes and unauthorised UTVs are banned, and driving on the dune field is prohibited. Ask your guide for their badge (crachá) and authorisation. Inside the park, alcohol, campfires, barbecues, glass and pets are not allowed.
📌Currency and language
Brazilian real (R$). Portuguese is spoken, and the guides on the regular tours speak Portuguese (Civitatis). Inside the lagoon circuits there is nowhere to buy food or drinks: bring water, sunscreen and insect repellent from town.
💱 BRL exchange rate
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🌤️ Weather in Barreirinhas
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Barreirinhas is the gateway to the Lençóis Maranhenses, a landscape that looks photoshopped: white dunes all the way to the horizon and, between them, green and blue freshwater lagoons you can swim in. It isn't a desert, even if it looks like one. It rains a lot in the first half of the year and the water gets trapped between the dunes. That's why you plan the trip by the calendar: go between June and September and you'll see the park full; go in December and you'll see a different place, drier and sandier.
The town isn't pretty in itself, but it works. It has a riverfront along the Preguiças with restaurants and the boat pier, guesthouses for every budget and agencies on every corner. From here the two classic half-day tours set off, Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita, in 4x4 trucks along sandy tracks. And there's the boat trip downriver, which passes Vassouras, the Mandacaru lighthouse and Caburé beach, out to where the river meets the sea.
The good news for anyone travelling on a tight budget: entry to the park is free and the regular shared tours cost around R$ 120 per person. What drives the cost up is wanting to go everywhere or go private. A good combination: two or three days in Barreirinhas for the lagoons and the river, and one or two nights in Atins, the sandy little village on the edge of the park. If you have more time, Santo Amaro, on the other side of the park, has tall dunes and lagoons close to town.
📖 History of Barreirinhas
The lower Preguiças river region was inhabited by the Tapuia and Caeté indigenous peoples; the Caeté lived on the sandbanks near the river mouth. In the 18th century the Society of Jesus set up the Santo Inácio estate there, which, after the expulsion of the Jesuits, passed into the hands of various sugar mill owners. In the mid-19th century, new roads between Piauí and the Maranhão coast and the good pastures along the riverbanks attracted settlers and gave rise to small settlements. In 1858 the parish of Nossa Senhora da Conceição das Barreirinhas was created and, by Provincial Law 951 of 14 July 1871, Barreirinhas was raised to the status of town, separate from Tutóia. It became a city in 1938. The municipality lived on fishing, farming and cattle raising along its rivers. From the 1960s, Petrobras studies on oil and gas in the area made the dune field known in the national press. On 2 June 1981, Decree 86.060 created the Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses, now covering 156.608 hectares and managed by ICMBio since 2007. Images of the lagoons travelled the world: they appeared in the film Avengers: Infinity War (2018), and The New York Times picked the Lençóis among its destinations for 2023. In 2024 Unesco inscribed the park on the World Heritage List. Success brought pressure: in 2025 the park received more than 650.000 visitors, over 400% more than in 2019, and in January 2026 ICMBio began studying a maximum number of visitors per area to protect the dunes and lagoons.
🗺️ What to see
Tours you can book
Some places make no sense on your own; with someone explaining them, they change completely. We look ours up on Civitatis: guided in Spanish and booked online with no fuss. They have 15 activities in Barreirinhas. Three are below so you get the idea: tap any of them and they all open.
If you book from here we earn a commission and you pay no more. Prices and availability come from Civitatis.
1
The classic half-day tour: 4x4 along sandy tracks, a walk through the dunes and a swim in Lagoa Azul and nearby lagoons.
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It's the best-selling excursion in Barreirinhas and, for many people, their first encounter with the Lençóis. The circuit includes Lagoa Azul and other lagoons that appear and disappear depending on the rain, the wind and the movement of the dunes, such as Lagoa da Preguiça, Lagoa do Peixe or Lagoa da Esmeralda (ICMBio).
What it's like: they pick you up at your guesthouse, the truck crosses the Preguiças river on a ferry and continues about 12 km along a sandy track, around 45 minutes. At the foot of the dunes you get out and walk to the lagoons. The route isn't fixed: the guide picks the lagoons that are in the best shape that week.
There are morning and afternoon departures; the afternoon one adds sunset over the dunes. Nothing is sold inside, so bring water and something to eat. Wear light clothing, a hat and sunscreen: the sand reflects a lot of sun. The trucks usually carry a cool box, so you can bring cold drinks (Melhores Destinos). It's a tour suitable for almost everyone, with short walks on soft sand.
ℹ️ Distance: About 12 km of sandy track from the river crossing (45 minutes by 4x4), plus a walk · Best time: June to September, with full lagoons; afternoon departure for the sunset · Admission: Park free (ICMBio). Regular tour R$ 120 per person including transfer, 4x4, ferry and Portuguese-speaking guide (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: 3,5 to 4 hours
2
Lagoa Bonita circuit
A climb up a tall dune on a wooden staircase with a view over a sea of lagoons; it's the favourite tour for sunset.
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Lagoa Bonita is the other classic circuit in the Barreirinhas sector. It includes Lagoa do Clone, Lagoa do Descanso and Lagoa Bonita itself (ICMBio). You get there by 4x4 along sandy roads and then climb the dunes on a wooden staircase.
What sets it apart is the view: from the top of the dune, about 20 metres high according to travel blogs, you see a huge field of dunes and lagoons. That's why many people choose it if they only have time for one tour. The usual departure is after midday (pick-up between 13.30 and 13.50) and you get back around 19.30, after sunset (Viagens e Caminhos blog, 2026).
The climb is a bit tiring, but short. At the top you have free time to swim and wait for the sunset. Bring a torch or a charged phone for the way back, which is after dark. As at Lagoa Azul, there's no food or drink for sale.
ℹ️ Distance: Departs from Barreirinhas by 4x4; the journey is longer than to Lagoa Azul · Best time: June to September; ideal in the afternoon for the sunset · Admission: Park free (ICMBio). Regular tour R$ 120 per person including transfer and 4x4 (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: About 6 hours
3
Boat trip on the Preguiças river (Vassouras and Pequenos Lençóis)
Downriver by speedboat between mangroves and dunes, stopping at Vassouras, where there are monkeys and coconut water.
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The Preguiças river runs through Barreirinhas and flows into the Atlantic. The speedboat (voadeira) trip is the way to see the water side: mangroves, fishing villages and the Pequenos Lençóis, lower dunes that lie outside the national park, in an environmental protection area.
The first stop is Vassouras, a small fishing community, where you can drink coconut water and see capuchin monkeys (macaco-prego) in the mangroves. Then it continues to Mandacaru, with its lighthouse, and ends at Caburé beach, where you have lunch (everyone pays for their own).
It departs from the pier on Avenida Beira Rio; if your guesthouse is on the river, the boat can pick you up there. It's a long day, almost eight hours. Some travellers find it less striking than the lagoons, but it's the best way to understand the whole landscape, and it's a good option for the day you arrive tired or when the lagoons are low.
ℹ️ Distance: Departs from the pier on Avenida Beira Rio, in central Barreirinhas · Best time: All year round; it doesn't depend on lagoon levels · Admission: R$ 120 per person, lunch not included (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: 7 h 50 min for the full circuit to Caburé
4
Mandacaru lighthouse (Farol de Preguiças)
A lighthouse about 35 metres tall with 160 steps above the river; from the top you can see the dunes, the river and the coast.
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Mandacaru is a little fishing village on the Preguiças and a fixed stop on the boat trip. Its big draw is the Farol de Preguiças, a concrete tower about 35 metres tall. The current light has been working since 1940; before that there was a tower from 1909 (Wikipedia).
You climb about 160 steps to the top. It's worth the effort: from up there you can see how the river winds through mangroves and dunes to the sea, and you can make out the Pequenos Lençóis. The lighthouse is in a Brazilian Navy area, but travel accounts agree that you can climb it without paying. Check on site, because that can change.
The boat-trip stop is short, so if you want to climb, head straight to the lighthouse when you get off the boat and leave the coconut water for later. It's 160 steps in one go: take it easy if you're not used to stairs, and bring water.
If you'd rather see it from the air, the scenic flight also passes over Mandacaru and Caburé.
ℹ️ Distance: On the Preguiças river, on the boat route between Barreirinhas and Caburé · Best time: All year round; best with clear skies · Admission: Free to climb according to travellers' accounts (source: Esse Mundo é Nosso blog, consulted October 2026). Reached on the R$ 120 boat trip · Duration: 30 to 45-minute stop
5
Caburé beach
A strip of sand between the Preguiças river and the sea, with fish restaurants; it's the lunch stop on the boat trip.
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Caburé is a tongue of sand with the river on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. It has beach restaurants where the tours stop for lunch, known for good seafood (Civitatis). It's the end of the boat circuit and also a stop on the quad-bike circuit, which adds the Caburé wind farm, with giant turbines in the middle of the dunes.
The plan here is simple: eat fried fish with arroz de cuxá, have a swim and rest in the shade. One travel blog recorded fish dishes at R$ 98 for two at one of its restaurants and found them a bit pricey (Viciada em Viajar, 2023). Some restaurants recommend ordering your food as soon as you arrive, heading to the beach and coming back at the agreed time.
From Caburé, a short boat crossing takes you to Atins; if you want to carry on there with the tour boat, arrange it with the agency beforehand. On the quad-bike circuit the stop at Caburé lasts about two hours (Viagens e Caminhos). Bring cash as well as your card in case a place doesn't take cards.
ℹ️ Distance: Mouth of the Preguiças river, at the end of the boat trip · Best time: All year round; midday for lunch · Admission: Beach free. Reached on the R$ 120 per person boat trip (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: About a 2-hour stop; or a night if you stay over
6
Atins (vilarejo de Atins)
A little village of sandy streets facing the mouth of the Preguiças, a base for kitesurfing and for the lagoons in the far north-east.
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Atins is a fishing village that has become the alternative base to Barreirinhas. It lies outside the park, facing the mouth of the Preguiças river, and has sandy streets, guesthouses, small restaurants and a much calmer atmosphere (ICMBio).
Activities include hiking, kitesurfing, windsurfing, kayaking, stand-up paddle, cycling, horse riding and surfing (ICMBio). 4x4s also leave from Atins for lagoons in the north-east sector, such as Kite, Gavião, Maria Vitória and Gorjeta, with sunset at Lagoa Tropical (Civitatis).
Another trip from Atins is to the mouth of the Rio Negro and Lagoa Verde, along the park's beach: when the river has water it forms small waterfalls onto the sea. ICMBio recommends checking with local operators whether the trip is feasible before going. You get there by direct boat, by 4x4 truck or on the river tour.
ℹ️ Distance: About 50 minutes by direct boat from Barreirinhas, or 2 hours by 4x4 (Buenas Dicas, 2026) · Best time: June to September for the lagoons; the village, all year round · Admission: Village free. Direct boat from R$ 170 each way (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: Ideally 1 or 2 nights
8
Lagoa da Esperança
A lagoon surrounded by large dunes on the border with Santo Amaro, where the Rio Negro rises; further away and less crowded.
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Lagoa da Esperança lies on the border between Barreirinhas and Santo Amaro do Maranhão, surrounded by large dunes. It's where the Rio Negro rises (ICMBio). Being further from town, the journey takes more than an hour, which filters out a good share of the short-tour crowd.
It's an option for anyone who has already done Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita and wants to see another sector without crossing to Santo Amaro. Some travel guides point to it as an alternative when the other lagoons are low, because it tends to hold water longer, though that always depends on the year's rainfall. Ask the agency before booking it out of season.
Some agencies in Barreirinhas sell it as a tour in its own right, or as part of private 4x4 routes. As always in the park, only with a vehicle and driver accredited by ICMBio. Bring everything you'll eat and drink, plus sunscreen and a hat, because there's no shade.
ℹ️ Distance: More than an hour by 4x4 from Barreirinhas (ICMBio) · Best time: June to September; check the level out of season · Admission: Park free. Done on a private 4x4 tour of the park from US$ 337,55 per group (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: Half day or full day, depending on the operator
9
Scenic flight (sobrevoo de monomotor)
Half an hour in a light aircraft over dunes, lagoons, the river and the coast; the only way to see the true scale of the Lençóis.
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From the air you understand what you can't from the sand: the dune field, the largest in Brazil according to ICMBio, stretches out of sight, with thousands of lagoons between the dunes. The flight leaves from Barreirinhas airport in small single-engine planes carrying a few passengers.
The standard route lasts about 30 minutes. According to operators and blogs, it passes over Vassouras, Caburé, Mandacaru and Atins and returns over Lagoa Azul and Lagoa do Peixe before landing. There are longer routes, of up to an hour, at a higher price.
It's expensive, so think of it as the trip's big splurge. It's best done with full lagoons and clear skies, first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the light brings out the dunes. On Civitatis you can book up to a day before and cancel free of charge up to 48 hours in advance.
ℹ️ Distance: Departs from Barreirinhas airport, a few minutes from the centre · Best time: June to September, with clear skies · Admission: US$ 239,11 per person on Civitatis (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026); R$ 1.200 according to the Viagens e Caminhos blog (prices for the second half of 2026) · Duration: 30-minute flight
10
Santo Amaro do Maranhão (Gaivota and Andorinha lagoons, Betânia)
The western side of the park, with taller dunes and large lagoons; a less crowded alternative to Barreirinhas.
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Santo Amaro do Maranhão is the other main gateway to the park, on the western side. There the dunes are tall and the lagoons are close to town, such as Lagoa da Gaivota and Lagoa da Andorinha. Santo Amaro is also the starting point for the Betânia circuit, which adds a boat crossing to the Betânia community, and for walks to the Lagoas Emendadas.
You can do it as a day trip from Barreirinhas: bus to Santo Amaro, switch to a 4x4, stops at the lagoons, lunch in town or in a nearby village, and back. It takes more than 11 hours, so if you're interested, it's better to spend one or two nights there.
Watch out for the fee: Santo Amaro charges a municipal Taxa de Turismo Sustentável. It was introduced in 2023, suspended in 2024 by a court ruling and reinstated in July 2024 under a new law; it gives three days of access and residents are exempt (O Imparcial). Civitatis lists it at R$ 15 per person, not included in the tour.
ℹ️ Distance: Excursion from Barreirinhas: bus to Santo Amaro and 4x4 in the park · Best time: June to September · Admission: Day trip from Barreirinhas R$ 400 per person, plus a R$ 15 tourist tax (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: 11 h 30 min for the trip; better to stay 1 or 2 nights
12
Lençóis Crossing (Travessia dos Lençóis)
Multi-day trek through the park's Zona Primitiva, from Atins to Santo Amaro, sleeping in local communities.
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The Travessia dos Lençóis is a long-distance trek that crosses the park from its north-eastern end, at Atins, to Santo Amaro do Maranhão, through the Zona Primitiva, the most sensitive area of the park, which can only be entered on foot (ICMBio).
For the 2026 season ICMBio set rules: you must book the community support points in advance (Atins, Baixa Grande, Queimada dos Britos and Betânia) and carry the confirmation; groups can't exceed 10 people per guide; human waste collectors are mandatory if you stay overnight; glass and campfires are banned. You also have to register your entry and exit on the park's online forms.
ICMBio recommends not walking between 11.00 and 15.00 and carrying at least three litres of water per person per day, because water and support are only available in the communities. It's done with a guide; agencies sell it as two or three days depending on the route.
ℹ️ Distance: From Atins (Barreirinhas) to Santo Amaro do Maranhão, crossing the Zona Primitiva · Best time: June to September, with lagoons to cool off in · Admission: Park free. Private 2-day Barreirinhas–Atins trek from US$ 1.195,57 per group; 3 days to Santo Amaro from US$ 1.557,04 per group (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) · Duration: 2 to 3 days
💵 Prices
Tickets
| Type | Price |
|---|
| Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses (ICMBio) | Free: ICMBio charges no admission; you only pay for the accredited operator's service (source: gov.br/icmbio, Orientações ao Visitante, verified October 2026). Open all year round |
| Circuito Lagoa Azul (paseo regular en 4x4) | R$ 120 per person, with transfer, 4x4, ferry and Portuguese-speaking guide (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026). Also at agencies on Avenida Beira Rio |
| Circuito Lagoa Bonita (paseo regular en 4x4) | R$ 120 per person, with transfer and 4x4 (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026). Can be bought online or at agencies in the centre |
| Lancha por el río Preguiças (Vassouras, Mandacaru, Caburé) | R$ 120 per person, lunch extra (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026). Leaves from the pier on Avenida Beira Rio |
| 4x4 a las lagunas de Atins y Canto dos Lençóis | R$ 200 per person, lunch extra (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) |
| Excursión a Santo Amaro en el día | R$ 400 per person; Santo Amaro municipal tourist tax of R$ 15 extra (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026). Residents of Santo Amaro and Primeira Cruz are exempt from the tax (O Imparcial, 2024) |
| Sobrevuelo en avioneta (30 minutos) | US$ 239,11 per person (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026); R$ 1.200 per person according to the Viagens e Caminhos blog (prices for the second half of 2026) |
| Boia-cross en el río Formiga | R$ 133,50 per person with transfer and tube (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026) |
| Faro de Mandacaru (Farol de Preguiças) | The climb is free according to travellers' accounts (source: Esse Mundo é Nosso blog, consulted October 2026); check on site |
| Playas de Caburé, Atins y Vassouras | Free (beaches and villages with open access); you only pay for transport (source: ICMBio, verified October 2026) |
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
Activities and tours
Quad bike along the Caburé Circuit (Pequenos Lençóis, Vassouras, Caburé and wind farm)
PriceUS$ 159,41 per person on Civitatis (verified October 2026); R$ 800 according to the Viagens e Caminhos blog (second half of 2026). You drive yourself, with a licence and from age 18
Private Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita, with a walk
Sunrise in the Lençóis, private tour
Betânia Circuit by 4x4 (Santo Amaro)
PriceR$ 360 per person, lunch extra (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026)
Walk to the Lagoas Emendadas (Santo Amaro)
PriceR$ 360 per person (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026); R$ 207 on the Viagens e Caminhos blog (second half of 2026)
Sunset by 4x4 over the dunes from Atins
Visit to Tapuio and the Casa de Mujeres Artesanas de Marcelino (buriti-fibre crafts)
PriceFrom R$ 1.866,66 per group, private (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
🚌 How to get there and distances
Getting around
Direct Barreirinhas–Atins speedboat (voadeira)
PriceR$ 100 per leg with Satur Turismo (source: Buenas Dicas blog, updated January 2026); from R$ 170 on Civitatis (verified October 2026)
NotesLeaves from the pier in the centre. Book the Atins–Barreirinhas return in advance, as it fills up. Other operators: Lancha Belíssima.
Speedboat to Atins with stops at Vassouras, Mandacaru and Caburé
PriceFrom R$ 300 per person (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026); or the boat tour from R$ 120 plus a coordinated crossing to Atins (Buenas Dicas blog, 2026)
NotesLets you get to Atins and do the river tour on the same day. Arrange the final crossing from Caburé before you set off.
Shared 4x4 truck (jardineira) to Atins
PriceAbout R$ 20 less than the speedboat, the cheapest option (source: Buenas Dicas blog, updated January 2026)
NotesThey leave from the main avenue, near the Prefeitura. You ride in the back of the truck, over dunes, streams and fields; the blog warns of knocks from branches and metal bars, so it's not the most comfortable option.
Agency transfers and taxis within Barreirinhas
PriceRegular tours include pick-up at pousadas in the centre (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026). Taxi within town from about R$ 20 (source: Viciada em Viajar blog, surveyed 2019, updated 2023)
NotesThe centre is small and easy to walk around. Some pousadas outside the centre (e.g. Chalés Passagem do Canto, Pousada Mangaba) don't have pick-up included on certain tours: ask when you book.
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
How to get there
São Luís (bus station) → Barreirinhas by bus
São Luís (hotel or airport) → Barreirinhas by door-to-door van/transfer
Airlines / operatorsTransfer agencies in São Luís and Barreirinhas (via Civitatis and others)
Avg. priceSão Luís–Barreirinhas US$ 26,56 per person; Barreirinhas–São Luís R$ 133,33 per person (source: Civitatis, verified October 2026)
Flight to São Luís (SLZ, Marechal Cunha Machado Airport) + road
Airlines / operatorsAzul, LATAM and Gol, with flights from São Paulo, Brasília, Recife, Fortaleza and Belo Horizonte, among others
Avg. priceFares vary by date; add the overland leg by bus from R$ 83 or transfer from US$ 26,56 (source: airportroutes.com and Civitatis, verified October 2026)
Barreirinhas Airport (direct flights)
Airlines / operatorsNo regular commercial flights: only general aviation, executive and charter flights
Avg. priceNo regular fare; included in April 2026 in the GRU Airport concession with R$ 58,1 million of planned investment (source: oimparcial.com.br, April 2026)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying
🏨 Where to stay
No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.
Hostels and simple pousadas
Recommended optionsHostel Lençóis Park from R$ 65 a night; Pousada e Agência Cledio Turismo from R$ 140; Recanto das Árvores from R$ 150 (source: Kayak, verified October 2026). According to Kayak, February is the cheapest month and June the most expensive: for July, book early
Mid-range pousadas in the centre and on the river
Recommended optionsPousada Brilho dos Lençóis from R$ 190; Pousada Nossa Casa from R$ 256; Pousada Vida Nova and Pousada Mangaba from R$ 280; Pousada Sol Nascente from R$ 310, rated 9,4 (source: Kayak, verified October 2026). Prices for October dates; they go up in July and over the New Year period
Hotels with pools and serviced flats
Recommended optionsHotel Gran Lençóis Flat from R$ 335; Orla Náutica from R$ 335; Portal do Sol Lençóis from R$ 445; Encantes do Nordeste from R$ 477, with spa (source: Kayak, verified October 2026). Gran Lençóis has its own pier for boarding the speedboats to Atins (Buenas Dicas blog, 2026)
Resort and boutique hotels
Recommended optionsPorto Preguiças Resort from R$ 530 a night, on the riverbank; in Atins, Oásis Atins Boutique Hotel from R$ 565 (source: Kayak, verified October 2026). According to Kayak, the June average (R$ 829) is almost four times February's (R$ 215): in high season, book months ahead
🍴 Where to eat
Options / signature dishOn Rua Professor Viana, a pedestrian street that runs down to Avenida Beira Rio, there are cafés with toasted sandwiches and regional fruit juices (bacuri, cupuaçu, murici). For reference: toasted sandwich R$ 5,50 and juice R$ 8 at Divino Cafeteria (source: Viciada em Viajar blog, 2019 prices updated in 2023, consulted October 2026; they may be higher today)
Pescado con arroz de cuxá en la Avenida Beira Rio
Options / signature dishThe Maranhão dish: arroz de cuxá (rice with dried shrimp, sesame and vinagreira leaves). At A Canoa, grilled fish fillet with arroz de cuxá, beans, farofa and vinaigrette: R$ 92 for two; bolinho de aipim with shrimp R$ 17,90 (source: Viciada em Viajar blog, surveyed 2019, updated 2023; consulted October 2026). Dishes are usually for two
Mariscos y pizza a la leña
Options / signature dishBambaê, near the river, with shrimp in pineapple and grilled snook: seafood dishes for two average R$ 110; large pizza for three R$ 54; free car pick-up around town (source: Viciada em Viajar blog, updated 2023; consulted October 2026). Ask your pousada to call for the pick-up
Camarón a la parrilla en el Canto dos Lençóis (Atins)
Options / signature dishRestaurante da Luzia and Restaurante do Antônio, neighbours and rivals, with marinated shrimp grilled over the coals. A blog recorded R$ 45 a plate with rice, beans and salad (Mala de Aventuras, updated September 2025) and 2024 reviews mention R$ 120 for half a dozen shrimp (cardapio.menu). Budget for the higher price. In Atins, Restaurante da Sesé, with shrimp risotto served in a pineapple
❓ Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to go to see the lagoons full?+
The lagoons are rainwater collected between the dunes, so everything depends on the rainy season. The Ministry of Tourism says it rains between February and May and that afterwards, between May and September, the park reaches its highest water levels. July and August are the peak: full lagoons and less rain, but also more people and pricier pousadas (Kayak lists June as the most expensive month). From October to January many lagoons drop or dry up. Every year is different: if there was little rain, some lagoons are already empty in September. Before paying, ask the agency for recent photos or ask how the water level is that week.
Can I enter the park on my own, with my own car or on foot?+
By vehicle, no. According to ICMBio, only accredited vehicles, drivers and guides may take visitors into the park, and private cars, motorbikes, buggies, quad bikes and unauthorised UTVs are banned. Driving on the dunes isn't allowed either. Admission is free, but in practice you have to book a tour with an agency or an accredited driver; ask for their credentials and authorisation. On foot, the Zona Primitiva can only be explored walking, and for the Travessia dos Lençóis ICMBio requires bookings in the communities, online registration and groups of up to 10 people per guide.
What documents do I need to enter Brazil?+
If you're Argentine, Uruguayan, Paraguayan, Chilean, Colombian, Peruvian, Bolivian or Ecuadorian, you can enter as a tourist with your valid national ID card (DNI card, cédula) or passport, without a visa, under the Mercosur travel documents agreement. The document must be in good condition and physical: the digital version on your phone isn't accepted. Mexicans can enter visa-free as tourists for up to 90 days, but need a passport. If you're travelling with minors without one of the parents, look into the travel authorisation required in your country. Confirm everything with your foreign ministry and the Polícia Federal before you leave, as the rules can change.
How many days do I need?+
With three nights in Barreirinhas you cover the essentials: Lagoa Azul one morning, Lagoa Bonita one afternoon and the boat trip along the Preguiças River another day. Add one or two nights in Atins to see the north-eastern sector, Canto dos Lençóis and the river mouth at a slower pace. With a week you can add Santo Amaro, where it's better to sleep over than to do it as a day trip (the excursion from Barreirinhas takes more than 11 hours). Keep in mind that from São Luís it's about four or five hours by road each way, so your arrival and departure days leave little time for long outings.
Is there any fee or admission charge?+
ICMBio does not charge admission to the National Park: you only pay for the tour. Barreirinhas does not charge a tourist tax; in 2023 the prefeitura denied a fake document that mentioned one. Santo Amaro do Maranhão does charge a municipal Taxa de Turismo Sustentável: it was created in 2023, suspended in 2024 by a court ruling and brought back in July 2024 under a new law. It covers three days of access, and residents of Santo Amaro and Primeira Cruz are exempt. Civitatis lists it at R$ 15 per person, on top of the tour. If you are going to Santo Amaro, ask what the current amount is.
What should I bring on the tour, and what is banned in the park?+
There is nowhere to buy anything inside the circuits: Melhores Destinos warns that there is no food or drink for sale at Lagoa Azul, so bring everything from Barreirinhas (the trucks usually have a cool box). ICMBio recommends water, insect repellent and sunscreen. Add a hat, sunglasses, swimwear and a bag for your phone. Selling, carrying or drinking alcohol is banned, as are drugs, campfires, barbecues and camping stoves, and bringing pets. For 2026, ICMBio has also banned glass inside the park. If you do the Travessia, the park asks you to carry at least three litres of water per person per day and to avoid walking between 11:00 and 15:00.
Should I stay in Barreirinhas or in Atins?+
Barreirinhas is the practical base: it has more pousadas, restaurants and agencies, and all the classic tours leave from there, as do the buses and vans to São Luís. Atins is smaller and quieter, with sandy streets, a beach feel and the wind that kitesurfers come for; it sits opposite the river mouth and closer to the north-eastern part of the park. The easiest option is to combine both: arrive in Barreirinhas, do Lagoa Azul, Lagoa Bonita and the river from there, then take a boat to Atins (about 50 minutes) for one or two nights. For the return trip, book the Atins–Barreirinhas boat in advance because it fills up.
Sources consulted (36)
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