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Juba
🇸🇸 South Sudan · Juba and the White Nile (Central Equatoria)

Juba

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📌Safety notice
travel not recommended. This is an informational guide, not an invitation to travel. The US Department of State keeps South Sudan at Level 4 “Do Not Travel” due to crime, kidnapping and armed conflict, in its advisory updated on 17 May 2026, and has ordered the departure of non-emergency government personnel. The British Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office “advises against all travel to South Sudan” (advice updated on 26 May 2026) and has asked British nationals in the country to leave if they can do so safely. Spain's Ministry of Foreign Affairs states that “travel is advised against under any circumstances” and urges Spanish citizens to leave the country immediately (recommendation updated on 28 March 2025). Always check the current advice from your own foreign ministry before making any decision.
📌Location
Juba (also Juba in Juba Arabic) is the capital and largest city of the Republic of South Sudan. It sits on the west bank of the White Nile, known here as the Bahr el Jebel, about 550 metres above sea level in the state of Central Equatoria. It lies some 150 kilometres from the Ugandan border and is the hub for almost everything that moves in the country: the international airport, government offices, UN agencies and NGOs, and the starting point of the few passable roads.
📌Population
The 2017 census gave it 525,953 inhabitants across some 52 square kilometres, though the figures are much disputed. The 2013-2018 civil war and the violence that followed sent waves of displaced people into the city and its outskirts. Juba is home to people from almost every group in the country: Bari (the original inhabitants of the area), Dinka, Nuer, Zande, Shilluk, Mundari and Latuka. There is also a large community of Ugandan, Kenyan, Ethiopian, Eritrean and Somali traders.
📅Climate and best time to visit
Tropical savanna climate, hot all year round. In February, the hottest month, highs climb to about 38 °C. The dry season runs from December to March and is the only window when the country's dirt roads are reasonably passable. The rainy season, from April to November, brings close to 1,000 mm a year and turns much of the country into impassable mud. The Spanish Foreign Ministry also warns that the rainy season raises the risk of robbery on the road.
📌Language and currency
English is the official language. Juba Arabic (an Arabic-based creole) is the lingua franca of the street, and Bari is the language of the area's original people. The currency is the South Sudanese pound (SSP). It suffers very high inflation and devaluation, and there is a wide gap between the official and parallel rates. We don't publish an exchange rate because any figure goes out of date within weeks. In practice the economy runs on dollars: hotels, agencies and rentals are priced in US dollars cash, in new, high-denomination notes. Cards barely work, and ATMs are few and unreliable.
📌Visa and health
Almost every nationality needs a visa in advance. There is an official e-visa portal, evisa.gov.ss, run by the Directorate of Civil Registry, Nationality, Passports and Immigration of the Ministry of the Interior. A single-entry visa costs USD 100 for most passports and USD 160 for US citizens, for stays of up to 90 days (rates published by the South Sudan embassy in Washington and the official portal, 2026). The online system often has technical problems, and many travellers apply at an embassy instead. Your passport must be valid for six months and have two blank pages. The international certificate of vaccination against yellow fever is mandatory. South Sudan is a malaria zone, so prophylaxis is essential. Medical care is very limited, and medical evacuation is at the traveller's expense. Get insurance that covers evacuation, without exception.
📌Photography: permit required
Taking photos in South Sudan with anything more than a phone requires an official permit. The permit is issued by the Ministry of Information / Ministry of the Interior and costs around USD 50 (figure from operators and traveller guides, 2026; no rate is published in an official bulletin available online). Even with a permit, photographing government buildings, military sites, the airport, bridges and checkpoints is forbidden. Travellers have been detained and assaulted for taking photos in the wrong place. Never photograph anyone without asking first.
📌Movement and curfew
Leaving Juba by road requires travel permits and, in practice, going with a local operator who handles logistics and escorts. The Spanish Foreign Ministry describes every road in the country as “extremely dangerous”, with frequent attacks and ambushes and checkpoints where money is demanded, and advises against driving at night. UN agencies and embassies observe an unofficial curfew in the capital from 19:00 to 06:00.
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🌤️ Weather in Juba
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Juba is the capital of the world's youngest country. South Sudan became independent from Sudan on 9 July 2011. This city on the White Nile was once a Bari village. British missionaries made it an administrative centre in the 1920s, and it later served as a wartime garrison, a guerrilla headquarters and the makeshift capital of a new state. In barely two decades it grew from a few tens of thousands of people to more than half a million.

Let's start with what matters: right now, travel to South Sudan cannot be recommended. Almost every foreign ministry in the world has the country at its highest alert level, and several are asking their citizens to leave. The 2013-2018 civil war ended with a peace agreement that has still not been fully implemented. Violence between communities keeps coming back, millions of people are displaced, and there is a deep humanitarian crisis. This guide exists to give honest information about what Juba is, the history it carries and what is in it. It is not meant to push anyone onto a plane.

That said, Juba is not an abstraction from a humanitarian report. It is a lively, noisy and surprisingly welcoming city. Konyo Konyo market roars from dawn, the White Nile flows wide and slow along the east side, and open-air bars line the riverbank. John Garang's mausoleum is its symbolic centre of gravity, and the hill of Jebel Kujur stands out to the west. Juba is also the only real gateway to the rest of the country: to the Mundari cattle camps of Terekeka, to the Bandingilo and Boma parks (which in July 2026 became the country's first UNESCO World Heritage Site), and to Torit and Kapoeta in the southeast.

What follows is a practical, sober guide: what to see, how the city works, what the verifiable costs are, what has no published price, and the precautions to take if you have a professional reason to be here.

📖 History of Juba

Juba began as a Bari village beside the White Nile, on a stretch of river that 19th-century explorers knew through nearby Gondokoro. That outpost was a stop for ivory and slave traders and a base for European expeditions searching for the source of the Nile. The modern city was founded by the Church Missionary Society in 1920-21 on the site of that village. By around 1927 Anglo-Egyptian Sudan was building an administrative centre there. In 1929 traders, many of them Greek, moved in from Rejaf, and in 1930 the governor's office arrived. In 1947 the Juba Conference sealed the decision to govern the south together with the north. That decision planted the seed of a conflict that broke out in 1955 with the Torit mutiny and ran through two civil wars. Juba was a stronghold of the Khartoum army during the second war (1983-2005), the autonomous capital after the 2005 Comprehensive Peace Agreement, and the national capital from independence on 9 July 2011. In December 2013, a clash within the presidential guard in the city itself sparked the South Sudanese civil war.

Read the full history ↓

🏛️ Juba and the White Nile (Central Equatoria)

The stretch of the White Nile where the capital was born: Bari and Mundari land, the old Gondokoro of the ivory traders, the Jebel Kujur hill and the Bandingilo plains, crossed by the largest mammal migration on the planet.

Read the history of Juba and the White Nile (Central Equatoria) →

🗺️ What to see

1
John Garang Mausoleum and Freedom Square
The most meaningful place in the country: the tomb of John Garang de Mabior, founder and leader of the Sudan People's Liberation Movement/Army (SPLM/A). He died in a helicopter crash on 30 July 2005, just three weeks after becoming First Vice President of Sudan. The site, with its entrance arch, stands at the end of the John Garang grounds, where independence was declared on 9 July 2011 and where national ceremonies are held. Sensitive area: no photos without authorisation.
2
Konyo Konyo Market
Juba's big market and the best gauge of the city: several blocks of packed stalls selling vegetables, dried Nile fish, meat, fabric, sheet metal, phone SIM cards, second-hand clothes and everything else. It starts early, and it is the best place to understand how the country's real economy works. Go with a local guide, keep your camera out of sight and leave valuables behind.
3
Jebel Market (Suk Jebel)
The other big market, to the west at the foot of Jebel Kujur hill. It focuses more on building materials, spare parts, motorbikes and wholesale trade. Less colourful than Konyo Konyo, but it tells you more about the city's chaotic boom.
4
The White Nile riverfront
The river is the backbone of Juba. Here the White Nile runs wide, brown and quiet, with fishermen in canoes, herons and the odd hippo upstream. Open-air bars and restaurants line the bank, the classic circuit for expats and middle-class South Sudanese, and at sunset they are the best spot in the city. Note: the riverbank is not safe for swimming because of currents, crocodiles and bilharzia.
5
Freedom Bridge
The country's second permanent bridge over the Nile and its first steel arch bridge: 560 metres long and funded by Japan through JICA. Construction began in 2013 and it opened on 19 May 2022, at a cost of more than 90 million dollars. It was built close to the old 1976 Bailey bridge, which for decades was the only fixed crossing. It is a symbol of reconstruction, but also sensitive infrastructure: no photos.
6
The rocky hill that dominates the west of the city, at about 684 metres above sea level (a little over a hundred metres above the city centre). The hike to the top gives the best view of Juba and the Nile, and its granite walls are the only known climbing terrain in the country. Only go up with a guide, depending on the security situation at the time. It has its own page in this guide.
7
All Saints Cathedral
Cathedral of the Episcopal Church of South Sudan and seat of the archbishop. It is a simple building but one of the most important institutions in the city: the church played a huge political and humanitarian role during the wars. Sunday services are long and full of singing, and they are an experience in themselves.
8
St Theresa's Cathedral (Kator)
The Catholic cathedral of the Archdiocese of Juba, in the Kator neighbourhood, with packed masses in English, Juba Arabic and Bari. Catholicism carries huge weight in Equatoria and in the country's community life. The cathedral has hosted national events and the papal visit of February 2023.
9
Nyakuron Cultural Centre
The city's main auditorium and cultural centre, built in the Sudanese era. It hosts concerts, plays, dance festivals and official events. The programme is irregular, but when something is on it is the best window into South Sudan's contemporary arts scene.
10
Hai Jalaba and the Greek legacy
Juba's old commercial centre was built by Greek traders who settled here from 1929 onwards. There were never more than 2,000 of them, but they built much of downtown. Some facades, warehouses and shops from that time remain, and they show what the city was like before the boom. Explore it with a guide and without a camera.
11
Cemetery and war memorials
Juba has several memorial sites scattered around the city, such as monuments to fallen SPLA fighters and the graves of historic commanders. They are not signposted as tourist attractions, but a local guide can explain them. They are the most direct way to understand why the country is the way it is.
12
Gondokoro (island and historic site)
A few kilometres upstream is the site of old Gondokoro, a 19th-century trading post and mission on the Nile. It was a stop for ivory and slave traders and a base for the European expeditions searching for the source of the Nile: Speke, Baker and later Emin Pasha. Very little physical evidence remains today, but it is the oldest historical layer of the metropolitan area.
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What nobody tells you

💵 Prices

Tickets

TypePrice
Mausoleo de John Garang y Plaza de la LibertadNo official rate published. Access depends on authorisation at the time and on whether official events are taking place; arranged through your guide or operator (2026)
Mercados de Konyo Konyo y JebelFree, explore on your own (2026)
Catedrales de Todos los Santos y de Santa TeresaFree admission; donations welcome. Respect service times and dress modestly (2026)
Permiso de fotografía (obligatorio para cámara)Around USD 50, issued by the Ministry of Information / Ministry of the Interior (figure from operators and traveller guides, 2026; no rate is published in an official bulletin available online)
Visado electrónico de turistaUSD 100 single entry, up to 90 days; USD 160 for US passports (official portal evisa.gov.ss and South Sudan embassy in Washington, 2026)
Centro Cultural de NyakuronDepends on the event; many activities are free or very cheap. No published price list (2026)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

Activities and tours

Half-day guided city tour (mausoleum, markets, Nile riverfront)
Duration3 to 5 h
OperatorJuba local operators, with guide and driver
Price
Local agencies sell it as a half-day city tour. Prices are quoted on request and there is no comparable public price list. Indirect reference: multi-day tours based in Juba start from about USD 1,750 per person (2026, see below)
3-day / 2-night tour: Juba + Mundari cattle camps of Terekeka
Duration3 days / 2 nights
OperatorOperators specialising in South Sudan
Price
From about USD 1,750 per person, rate published by an international operator for 2026. Includes transfers from Juba, guide, permits and camping. Does not include international flights or visa
Long 8-day expedition around the country (Mundari, Dinka, southeast)
Duration8 days / 7 nights
OperatorPhotography expedition operators
Price
Between about USD 2,890 and USD 3,490 per person depending on group size (6 to 12 participants), rate published by an expedition operator for its November 2026 departure
Hike to the top of Jebel Kujur
Duration3 to 3.5 h return
OperatorLocal guides / Juba operators
Price
No official rate. Done with a local guide hired in the city; the cost is agreed with the guide (2026)
Sunset and dinner at the Nile riverside bars
Duration2 to 4 h
OperatorIndependently, with vehicle transfer
Price
Meals at riverside and hotel restaurants: the city's top end, with no reliably published menu prices. Budget in dollars and confirm before ordering (2026)
Sunday service at All Saints Cathedral or St Theresa's Cathedral
Free; voluntary donation (2026)
Duration2 to 3 h
OperatorIndependently, ideally with someone local
Domestic or charter flight to the interior (Boma, Pibor, Malakal, Wau)
Duration1 to 2 h flight depending on destination
OperatorDomestic airlines and charter operators
Price
No consolidated public price list. Charter flights and seats on humanitarian aircraft are arranged case by case. Get a quote from an operator (2026)
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

🚌 How to get there and distances

Getting around

Boda boda (motorbike taxi)
DurationVariable
Price
The transport locals use most for short trips, paid in South Sudanese pounds. Fares are renegotiated with every devaluation, so we don't publish a figure. Agree the price before getting on (2026)
Notes
Fast and cheap, but no helmet, no insurance and chaotic traffic. Embassies and UN agencies advise their staff against it
Shared taxi and minibus (matatu / raksha)
DurationVariable
Price
Low fares in local currency, very volatile; always agreed beforehand (2026)
Notes
Informal routes along the main roads. There is no organised public transport network and no timetables
Private vehicle with driver
DurationPer day
Price
The only sensible option for a visitor, hired by the day through a hotel, operator or organisation. No public price list (2026)
Notes
Essential for getting around safely, dealing with checkpoints and avoiding being out at night. Outside the city you also need a travel permit
Ride-hailing apps
DurationVariable
Price
Local app-based taxi services have appeared in the capital, with patchy coverage and availability (2026)
Notes
Don't assume they will work; always keep a trusted driver's contact on hand
On foot
Free
DurationAt your own pace
Notes
Walking around the centre by day is possible with company, but visitors rarely do it. At night, simply don't: embassies and UN agencies observe an unofficial curfew from 19:00 to 06:00
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

How to get there

RouteAirlines / operatorsAvg. priceDuration
International flight to Juba International Airport (JUB)Regional connections, mainly from Entebbe, Nairobi, Addis Ababa, Cairo and Dubai, operated by regional airlines and local companies; the schedule changes oftenDepends on season and airline; no stable reference fare (2026)Entebbe about 1 h 15; Nairobi about 2 h; Addis Ababa about 2 h
Airport (JUB) → Juba centreHotel or operator transfer; taxis at the airportNo official rate; agree the fare before getting in. A pre-arranged transfer is recommended (2026)15 to 25 min (the airport is right next to the city)
Juba ↔ Nimule (Ugandan border) by roadBuses and minibuses run by Ugandan and South Sudanese companiesNo reliable public price list; paid in cash (2026)5 to 8 h depending on road conditions and checkpoints
Juba → Terekeka (Mundari cattle camps)4x4 vehicle hired through an operatorUsually included in the 2-3 day package (from about USD 1,750 per person on tours published for 2026)2 to 3 h on the Juba-Terekeka-Rumbek road (about 75 km to Terekeka)
Juba → Torit and Kapoeta (southeast)4x4 vehicle with driver; informal scheduled transport also runsNo public rate sheet (2026)Torit, about 3-4 h (some 150 km); Kapoeta, 6-8 h further on
Juba → Boma / Pibor and the interior by airCharters and domestic flightsNo consolidated public rate sheet; quoted case by case (2026)1 to 2 h flight
🔄 updated monthlyOfficial / reference values · double-check when buying

🏨 Where to stay

No exact prices: a scale from $ (budget) to $$$$$ (luxury), with 2-3 options per category.

International / high end
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
From about USD 150 a night according to rates published on booking platforms for 2026. The benchmarks are the Radisson Blu Hotel Juba (from about USD 151) and the Pyramid Continental Hotel (from about USD 153), both with a secure perimeter, their own power generation and private security, which is why diplomats and international organisations use them. The Pyramid Continental Hotel, a five-star hotel on the White Nile, is the only one of Juba's big hotels with its own website you can check: it adds the True Aloe spa with jacuzzi, sauna and eight treatment rooms, a free gym for guests and four in-house restaurants and bars, detailed under «Where to eat». It does not publish an open room rate: the site loads it from the booking engine (checked on 08/08/2026)
Mid-range hotels aimed at organisations and business travellers
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
Around USD 95-140 a night according to booking aggregators for 2026 (for example, the Palm Africa Hotel Juba from about USD 96). Standards vary: what you pay for here is the generator, the water, the wifi and the perimeter wall, not luxury
Guesthouses and container camps
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
Around USD 55-95 a night according to booking platforms for 2026: simple accommodation, much of it prefabricated rooms or converted containers, designed for NGO staff and consultants. It is the most common format in the city
Local budget options
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
Aggregators show accommodation from about USD 60 a night (2026). Below that range the offer is local, not listed on platforms and with no guarantee of security or basic services: this is not a backpacker destination
Camping outside the city
Price$$$$$
Recommended options
On trips to Terekeka or the interior you sleep in a tent as part of the operator's package. You do not camp on your own: you need a permit, a guide and coordination with the authorities and local communities (2026)

🍴 Where to eat

Cocina sudsudanesa
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
Local canteens and stalls serving kisra or asida (sorghum flatbreads and porridges) with meat stews, leafy mulah, Nile fish, beans and rice. You pay in South Sudanese pounds and prices move with inflation: we don't publish figures because any number goes stale. Ask before you order
Pescado del Nilo a la parrilla
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
The local speciality: grilled Nile perch and tilapia at the riverside spots and in the fishing neighbourhoods, with hot sauce and bread. The riverside restaurants quote in dollars and sit in the city's mid-to-upper range; no menus are published online
Cocina etíope, eritrea y ugandesa
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
The region's trading community has left a solid scene of Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurants (injera with tibs and wot) as well as Ugandan and Kenyan places. They are usually the best value in the city. No published prices
Restaurantes de hotel e internacionales
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
At the Radisson Blu, the Pyramid Continental and the walled compounds: international, Indian and Lebanese food, prices in dollars and at the top end for Juba. This is where much of the international staff eats, more for security than for the food. The Pyramid Continental is the only one that publishes its venues: Peacock Restaurant (ground floor, next to reception; breakfast buffet from 06:30 to 10:30, also open to non-residents), The Wok (10th floor, lunch buffet from 12:30 to 15:30 and dinner from 18:00 to 22:30, international and local food with live stations and views over the city, the stadium and the White Nile), L'Alveare (light menu, coffees, teas, juices and cakes, from 07:00 to 23:00 every day, with the menu published on its website) and the E11even Heaven sky bar (11th floor, retractable roof, pizza, shisha and DJ; Monday to Thursday from 15:00 to 01:00 and Friday to Sunday from 12:00 to 03:00). Checked on 08/08/2026
Puestos de mercado y té de la calle
Price$$$$$
Options / signature dish
In Konyo Konyo and around: mandazi, chapati, skewers, beans, and above all spiced tea and coffee at the street stands, which are the most democratic social institution in the country. The cheapest and most local option; usual hygiene and water precautions apply

📖 History of Juba

Origins, formation and what the sources say.

The Bari, the Nile and Gondokoro: before there was a city

Long before Juba existed, this stretch of the White Nile — known along its upper course as Bahr el Jebel, "the river of the mountain" — was the land of the Bari people, Nilotic farmers and herders settled on both banks of the river in scattered villages. The Bari are still the original people of the capital's metropolitan area, and you can still hear their language in the city's neighbourhoods and churches.

The place that put this area on European maps was not Juba but Gondokoro, a few kilometres upstream: a trading and mission post that in the 19th century marked the limit of river navigation from Khartoum. Boats came up the Nile loaded with goods and went back down loaded with ivory and enslaved people, in one of the darkest chapters of the region's history. The Austrian Catholic mission set up in Gondokoro in the middle of the century failed because of disease: malaria and fever killed the missionaries almost as fast as they arrived.

Gondokoro was also the essential stop for the great European expeditions searching for the source of the Nile. It was there, in February 1863, that John Hanning Speke and James Grant, heading down from Lake Victoria, met Samuel Baker and Florence von Sass, heading up from the north — the meeting that would let the Bakers continue on to Lake Albert. Decades later, the region came under the control of the governor of Equatoria, Eduard Schnitzer, better known as Emin Pasha, who was cut off by the Mahdist uprising and became the target of a famous "rescue" expedition led by Henry Morton Stanley.

Between 1894 and 1910, a strip of this western bank of the Nile formed the so-called Lado Enclave, leased by the United Kingdom to King Leopold II of Belgium and run from the Congo Free State. When Leopold died, the enclave went back to Anglo-Egyptian Sudan. What remains of that period is mostly place names — Lado, Rejaf — and a border drawn according to the logic of European offices, not of the peoples who lived here.

en.wikipedia.org · Jubaen.wikipedia.org · Gondokoroen.wikipedia.org · Lado Enclave

The city the missionaries founded: 1920-1930

Modern Juba was born of an administrative and missionary decision. Between 1920 and 1921, the British Church Missionary Society settled on a small Bari village called Juba and founded the Nugent Memorial Intermediate School there, a school that gave the site infrastructure and prestige that no other place in the area had. That presence counted when Anglo-Egyptian Sudan was looking for somewhere to put the provincial headquarters of Equatoria.

In the late 1920s, the authorities ordered the Bari residents to be moved so the new administrative centre could be built: by around 1927, construction of the city was under way. In 1929 the traders from nearby Rejaf moved to Juba, and in 1930 the governor's office arrived. Within a decade, a hamlet had become the administrative capital of southern Sudan.

The new city's commerce was built largely by Greek merchants. There were never many of them — their community never went beyond two thousand people — but they built much of the centre and of the neighbourhood still known today as Hai Jalaba, the old Greek Quarter. The shops, hotels, cinemas and workshops of those years gave Juba its first urban look, and traces of it can still be seen among the new buildings.

The British administration ran southern Sudan under the so-called "Southern Policy": closed districts, restrictions on the movement of northern traders, promotion of English and of Christian missions, and deliberately minimal economic development. The south was kept apart from the north and, at the same time, left without institutions of its own. In 1946, the Juba Conference brought together British officials and leading figures from the north and the south and sealed the opposite turn: the south would be administered together with the north, in a single Sudan. The southern delegates were few and poorly prepared to negotiate, and the decision left a wound that would shape the next half century.

en.wikipedia.org · Jubaen.wikipedia.org · History of South Sudan

Torit, Anyanya and the long war: 1955-2005

On 18 August 1955, months before Sudan's independence, No. 2 Company of the Equatoria Corps mutinied in Torit after being ordered to move north. The mutiny spread to Juba, Yei, Yambio and Maridi; it was crushed with troops flown in, but many mutineers took to the bush with their weapons. That episode is seen as the start of the First Sudanese Civil War and of the Anyanya movement, which would be formally organised in the 1960s.

The war ended with the Addis Ababa Agreement of 1972, which created the Southern Sudan Autonomous Region with Juba as its capital. It was the first period of self-government in the south's history and the one that laid the city's institutional foundations: regional ministries, a university, services. It lasted eleven years.

In 1983 President Jaafar Nimeiry dissolved the autonomy, split the south into three regions and imposed sharia across the country. The response was the birth of the Sudan People's Liberation Movement/Army (SPLM/A), led by John Garang de Mabior, and the start of a second civil war that would drag on for twenty-two years and become one of the deadliest in 20th-century Africa, with millions dead from fighting, hunger and disease, and mass displacement.

During that war, Juba was a stronghold of the Khartoum army in the middle of territory largely controlled by the guerrillas. The city was practically under siege for years, supplied by air and by convoy, with civilians trapped between hunger, repression and fighting. The SPLA attacked it in several offensives — the one in 1992 got closest to the centre — without ever taking it. That status as a besieged city explains much of its current shape: it grew inwards, with dense, unplanned neighbourhoods and infrastructure that never kept up.

en.wikipedia.org · Torit mutinyen.wikipedia.org · Second Sudanese Civil Warblackpast.org · First sudanese civil war 1955 1972

From the Comprehensive Peace Agreement to independence: 2005-2011

On 9 January 2005, the Comprehensive Peace Agreement (CPA) between the government of Sudan and the SPLM/A was signed in Naivasha, Kenya. The agreement ended the second civil war, gave the south wide autonomy with Juba as its capital and set a self-determination referendum for six years later. On 9 July 2005, John Garang took office as First Vice President of Sudan and President of the autonomous government of the south.

Twenty-one days later, on 30 July 2005, Garang died when the helicopter bringing him back from Uganda crashed. His death sparked riots and a huge political shock: he was the figure who held up the idea of a unified, democratic "New Sudan". He was succeeded by Salva Kiir Mayardit, whose project aimed more directly at separation. Garang was buried in Juba, and his mausoleum, on the square that bears his name, became the country's main symbolic space.

Between 2005 and 2011 Juba went through a dizzying transformation. Hundreds of thousands of people returned from refugee camps in Uganda, Kenya and Ethiopia and from the north; UN agencies, NGOs, contractors and traders from all over East Africa arrived. The city filled up with white vehicles, container camps, makeshift hotels and prices in dollars. It was a chaotic boom, with no urban plan, that multiplied the population in just a few years.

In January 2011 the referendum set out in the CPA was held: independence won around 98.8% of the vote. On 9 July 2011, on the John Garang square, the flag of the Republic of South Sudan was raised for the first time in front of dozens of heads of state. Juba became the capital of the 193rd member state of the United Nations. Almost immediately there was talk of moving the capital to a new city, Ramciel, in a more central part of the country; the project never got off the ground and, as of 2026, the move had not happened.

en.wikipedia.org · Comprehensive Peace Agreementen.wikipedia.org · John Garangen.wikipedia.org · Juba

The civil war, the fragile peace and Juba today

The euphoria didn't last. On 15 December 2013, a clash within the presidential guard in Juba itself set off the South Sudanese Civil War, which pitted forces loyal to President Salva Kiir against those of former Vice President Riek Machar and quickly took on an ethnic dimension. There were massacres in the capital in the first few days, and tens of thousands of civilians took refuge in UN bases, which improvised the so-called "protection of civilians sites". The war spread to Jonglei, Upper Nile and Unity, and left hundreds of thousands dead — the most widely cited estimates come from independent academic studies, not an official count — and millions displaced and made refugees.

A first peace agreement in 2015 brought Machar back to Juba as Vice President, but in July 2016 fighting broke out in and around the J1 presidential compound, in the city centre, and the agreement collapsed. It was not until September 2018 that the Revitalised Agreement (R-ARCSS) was signed in Khartoum, and in February 2020 a government of national unity was formed with Kiir as President and Machar as First Vice President.

Implementation of that agreement has been slow, and elections have been postponed several times. In February 2023, Pope Francis visited Juba on an "ecumenical pilgrimage of peace" together with the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Moderator of the Church of Scotland, a gesture that drew huge crowds to the John Garang mausoleum. In March 2025, after the clashes in Nasir, Riek Machar was placed under house arrest; in September of that year he was suspended and brought before a special court charged with, among other things, treason and murder, a trial that analysts and human rights organisations described as a direct threat to the survival of the peace agreement. The current electoral timetable points to December 2026.

Meanwhile, the city kept on building. On 19 May 2022 the Freedom Bridge opened: a 560-metre steel arch over the Nile funded by Japan through JICA, the first bridge of its kind in the country and the second fixed crossing of the river in Juba after the old Bailey bridge from 1976. And on 26 July 2026, at its 48th session held in Busan, the UNESCO World Heritage Committee inscribed the Boma-Badingilo Migratory Landscape as South Sudan's first World Heritage site, under the emergency procedure and at the same time on the List of World Heritage in Danger: international recognition of the largest known land mammal migration on the planet and, at the same time, a reminder of how fragile everything is here.

Juba today is a capital of more than half a million people that concentrates the power, the money and the hopes of an entire country, with all the inequality and tension that brings. It is noisy, hot, uncomfortable and remarkably hospitable; it has a young music and poetry scene, packed churches, markets that never stop and a huge river flowing right past. And it is still, for better and for worse, the place where the fate of the world's youngest country is decided.

en.wikipedia.org · South Sudanese Civil Warcrisisgroup.org · Trial south sudans frail peaceunesco.org · Facing major threats six new sites join…

📚 Bibliography

  • Wikipedia (EN) — "Juba": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juba
  • Wikipedia (EN) — "History of South Sudan": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_South_Sudan
  • Wikipedia (EN) — "Torit mutiny": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torit_mutiny
  • Wikipedia (EN) — "Second Sudanese Civil War": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Sudanese_Civil_War
  • Wikipedia (EN) — "Comprehensive Peace Agreement": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comprehensive_Peace_Agreement
  • Wikipedia (EN) — "John Garang": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Garang
  • Wikipedia (EN) — "South Sudanese Civil War": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Sudanese_Civil_War
  • Wikipedia (EN) — "Freedom Bridge (South Sudan)": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freedom_Bridge_(South_Sudan)
  • JICA — "Completion of the Freedom Bridge: South Sudan's Long-awaited Symbol of Peace and Freedom" (3 June 2022): https://www.jica.go.jp/english/news/field/2022/20220603_11.html
  • BlackPast — "First Sudanese Civil War (1955-1972)": https://blackpast.org/global-african-history/first-sudanese-civil-war-1955-1972/
  • International Crisis Group — "A Trial for South Sudan's Frail Peace": https://www.crisisgroup.org/qna/africa/south-sudan/trial-south-sudans-frail-peace
  • UNESCO — "Facing major threats, six new sites join UNESCO's List of World Heritage in Danger" (26 July 2026): https://www.unesco.org/en/articles/facing-major-threats-six-new-sites-join-unescos-list-world-heritage-danger-three-them-emergency

❓ Frequently asked questions

Can you travel to South Sudan today?+
Not as a normal tourist. The U.S. Department of State keeps it at Level 4 «Do Not Travel» (advisory updated on 17 May 2026) due to crime, kidnapping and armed conflict; the UK FCDO advises against all travel to the country (26 May 2026) and has asked British nationals to leave; the Spanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs advises against travel under any circumstances and urges people to leave the country (28 March 2025). Those who travel today do so for humanitarian, diplomatic, journalistic or business work, with evacuation insurance, logistical support and a risk assessment carried out by professionals. This guide is for information only; it is not a travel recommendation.
How do you get a visa?+
Almost all nationalities need one. There is an official e-visa portal, evisa.gov.ss, run by the Ministry of Interior: USD 100 for a single entry for most passports, USD 160 for US citizens, with stays of up to 90 days (official 2026 rates). The online system often fails and many travellers end up applying at a South Sudanese embassy, which takes several days. You need a passport valid for six months, two blank pages and a yellow fever vaccination certificate.
Can I take photos in Juba?+
Only with an official permit if you use anything more than a phone: the permit is issued by the Ministry of Information / Interior and costs around USD 50 (operator reference, 2026). Even with the paper in hand, photographing government buildings, military installations, the airport, bridges and checkpoints is forbidden, and there are documented cases of travellers being detained or assaulted for doing so. Never photograph people without asking them first. This is probably the rule that saves a visitor the most trouble.
Can you leave Juba by road?+
It requires a travel permit and, in practice, an operator to handle the logistics. The Spanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs describes all roads as «extremadamente peligrosas» (extremely dangerous), with frequent attacks and ambushes and checkpoints where soldiers ask for money; it advises against driving at night and recommends never travelling in a vehicle with only one person. The busiest route is the one to Nimule towards Uganda; trips to Terekeka, Torit or Kapoeta are always made in a hired 4x4 vehicle with a prior security assessment.
What currency is used and can you pay by card?+
The currency is the South Sudanese pound (SSP), with very high inflation and devaluation and a large gap between the official and parallel rates, which is why we don't publish exchange rates. In practice everything a visitor spends money on —hotel, agency, vehicle hire— is quoted in US dollars cash, in new, unmarked, high-denomination notes. Cards are practically never accepted and ATMs are scarce and unreliable: you need to bring into the country all the cash you will need.
What vaccinations and health precautions are needed?+
The yellow fever certificate is mandatory. Also recommended are tetanus, diphtheria, polio, hepatitis A and B, typhoid, rabies, cholera and meningococcal A+C+W135, and antimalarial prophylaxis is essential. The water is not drinkable. Medical care is very limited and any serious problem means an air evacuation paid for by the patient: insurance with explicit medical evacuation cover is not optional.
What can you see from Juba in a few days?+
The city itself can be seen in a day: the John Garang Mausoleum, Konyo Konyo, the Nile riverside, the cathedrals. With two or three more days you can reach Terekeka and the Mundari camps, the country's best-known cultural attraction, and the Jebel Kujur hike. The Bandingilo and Boma parks —since 26 July 2026 South Sudan's first UNESCO World Heritage Site, inscribed through the emergency procedure and at the same time on the List of World Heritage in Danger— are much further away and today practically inaccessible to an ordinary visitor.

More places in South Sudan

BorCataratas de Fola (Fula)Chukudum y las colinas DidingaEl SuddJebel KujurKapoeta
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Image credits
Photos from Wikimedia Commons, each under its own licence (CC BY, CC BY-SA or public domain). Open each file to see its author and licence.
Juba Sudan aerial view