Itauguá was founded in 1728 by the governor of Paraguay Martín de Barúa, as part of the organization of the colonial towns of the central region, near Asunción. The Paraguayan capital, founded in 1537, was the center from which the colonization of the territory radiated, and throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries towns, parishes and reductions arose around it. Itauguá was born as one of those towns of the central zone, on lands of warm climate and fertile soil.
The name 'Itauguá' is of Guaraní origin, the indigenous language that in Paraguay not only survived colonization but remained an everyday language to this day. The most widespread interpretation associates it with the root 'itá', which means 'stone', referring to a place of stones or rocky ground. As with many Guaraní place names, there are nuances and variants in the translation and spelling (Itauguá, Itaugua), which are best taken as approximations.
From its origins, the life of Itauguá revolved around agriculture, cattle raising and the craft trades typical of the Paraguayan towns. Its location in the central region, on the road linking Asunción with the interior and the east of the country, gave it the role of a town of passage and exchange that, over time and with the construction of the modern road, would be reinforced. But what would end up giving it world fame was neither its trade nor its agriculture, but a hand-woven art: ñandutí.
Ñandutí is the soul of Itauguá and one of the great symbols of Paraguayan craft. Its name comes from Guaraní and means, literally, 'spider's web' (from 'ñandu', spider, and 'tí'), in clear allusion to its appearance: a very fine lace, of circular and radial motifs, that evokes the webs spiders weave. It's a needle lace made on a frame, first stretching radial threads that serve as a base and then embroidering over them the characteristic designs of suns, stars, flowers and geometric figures, in one or many colors.
The technique has roots in the Spanish tradition. The most accepted explanation is that ñandutí derives from needle laces brought to Paraguay during colonial times, in particular the so-called 'Tenerife' or 'sun' laces, originating in the Canary Islands, which are in turn linked to peninsular lace traditions and those of other places. That European technique was adopted and, above all, reinterpreted and enriched by the Paraguayan weavers, who gave it an identity of its own: the incorporation of bright colors, the motifs inspired by local nature and the Guaraní name finished turning it into something genuinely Paraguayan.
Itauguá consolidated itself as the undisputed center of this craft. The weaving of ñandutí is passed down from generation to generation, from mothers to daughters, forming part of the economy and identity of many families in the city. It's a work of great patience and skill, in which a single large piece can demand many hours or days of labor. For all this, Itauguá proudly holds the title of 'City of Ñandutí'.
Ñandutí is not just a technique, but a living tradition sustained for generations by the women of Itauguá. The craft is learned at home, from a young age, observing and helping mothers and grandmothers, and becomes part of family and community identity. For many families, moreover, the weaving and sale of ñandutí have historically represented a source of income, which ties the local economy to this craft.
Over time, the weavers expanded the ñandutí repertoire: from the traditional tablecloths and table runners they moved on to blouses, dresses, fans, parasols, pictures, accessories and all kinds of decorative and everyday pieces, which keep the art alive and adapt it to new tastes and markets. The creativity in the designs and the variety of colors are part of the appeal and value of each piece.
This heritage is celebrated and preserved in various ways. The city preserves a historic center with its traditional veranda houses —the gallery homes with wooden columns and tile roofs, typical of traditional Paraguay, where ñandutí is often woven— and has museum spaces, like the San Rafael Parish Museum, that safeguard the city's historical, religious and craft heritage. Ñandutí is, moreover, a source of national pride and part of the imaginary and cultural representation of Paraguay in the world.
The recognition of Itauguá as the capital of ñandutí found its greatest expression in the National Ñandutí Festival, the great annual event that celebrates this craft and Paraguayan culture. The festival turned the city into a reference point of the country's cultural calendar and into a showcase for the talent of its weavers.
During the festival —usually held around July, with dates that can vary—, Itauguá fills with ñandutí exhibitions and sales, contests that award the best weavers and the most outstanding works, and shows of Paraguayan folklore: music like the guarania and the polka, and traditional dances, among them the spectacular bottle dance, in which the dancers spin with bottles balanced on their heads. The election of a festival queen and the influx of visitors complete the festive atmosphere.
Beyond the festival, the projection of Itauguá and ñandutí transcends borders: the lace has become one of the most sought-after souvenirs and gifts by tourists, an emblem of national craft and a recognizable image of Paraguay abroad. The combination of its colonial heritage, its living craft tradition and its location right in the central tourist region —near Lake Ypacaraí and Caacupé— makes Itauguá a mandatory stop for anyone who wants to understand Paraguayan popular culture.
The history of Itauguá can't be understood without its geography. Located on the axis linking Asunción with the interior and the east of the country —today Route PY02—, the city was from its origins a point of passage and exchange in the central region, the most densely populated and worked area of Paraguay since colonial times. That condition as a town on the road favored the trade of its products, among them, naturally, ñandutí, which the weavers offered to travelers.
The modernization of the country and the construction of the paved road reinforced that role: Itauguá became integrated into a tourist and commercial corridor connecting the capital with destinations like Lake Ypacaraí, Areguá, San Bernardino and Caacupé. Today, that same road is the one that leads thousands of visitors to stop at its lace stalls, which keeps alive the bond between the road and the craft that made it famous.
Itauguá represents, on a small scale, many of the traits that define Paraguayan identity: the Guaraní language present in its name, the veranda houses of traditional Paraguay, the mix of indigenous and Hispanic roots in its culture, the religiosity of its church and its museums, and the pride in a popular art that became a national emblem. That's why getting to know Itauguá is a glimpse into the cultural heart of the country, beyond taking home a lace as a souvenir.