Flamenco Beach is on the island-municipality of Culebra, a small archipelago east of Puerto Rico, in the passage between the main island and the Virgin Islands. Before any military presence, these islands were part of the world of the Caribbean's original peoples and, later, were a passage territory for navigators, fishermen and, according to tradition, pirates who roamed these waters.
Culebra was settled late compared to the main island. Its formal colonization as a town came only at the end of the 19th century, in 1880, when a stable settlement was established. Until then, the island was a wild place, of pristine coasts, cays and deserted beaches, inhabited by a few families of fishermen and ranchers who lived from the sea and the land.
The peninsula and bay of Flamenco, with its great arc of pure white sand and its calm turquoise waters, was then a practically untouched natural corner. No one could imagine that this silent paradise would spend much of the 20th century turned into a military firing range, nor that much later it would come to be considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
Flamenco's fate changed completely at the beginning of the 20th century. After the United States' victory in the Spanish-American War of 1898, Puerto Rico came under its control, and the small eastern islands acquired strategic-military value for their position. In 1901, by decree of then-president Theodore Roosevelt, the Culebra Naval Base was established.
A few years later, around 1905, the US Navy began to use the island as a military training zone, concentrating much of its maneuvers precisely on the Flamenco peninsula. The beautiful bay of calm waters and white sand, ideal for landings and practices, was chosen as a firing and bombing range.
Thus, for decades, one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean was the setting for military exercises. The Navy carried out naval gunnery practice, bombings and amphibious landings there, especially intense during World War II. The local population of Culebra coexisted with that military use of their territory, which conditioned life on the island and restricted access to much of its coasts.
For much of the 20th century, and very intensely in the World War II era, Flamenco functioned as a firing and bombing range of the US Navy. The beach and the peninsula became a target for naval-artillery and aviation practice, and the setting for amphibious-landing exercises that prepared the troops for combat.
That military use left deep marks, both physical and social. The repeated bombing affected the landscape and left the terrain strewn with remains of explosives and munitions, some of which still require cleanup work and caution in certain areas of the island. For the Culebrans, it meant living for decades under the noise and danger of the maneuvers, with their territory conditioned by the Navy's needs.
The most visible vestiges of that era are today part of Flamenco's appeal, and of its memory: two abandoned war tanks that were left stranded in the beach's sand. Those tanks, rusted and covered in graffiti, have been there since the mid-1970s and became one of the beach's most photographed symbols, a silent reminder of its military past.
The Culebrans' discontent with the military use of their island grew throughout the 20th century, until it flowed into an organized protest movement. The local population, fed up with living under the bombing and seeing access to their own coasts restricted, began to demand forcefully the end of the practices and the departure of the Navy from Culebra.
The protests, which resonated throughout Puerto Rico, combined mobilizations, civil disobedience and political pressure. Activists and residents went so far as to occupy restricted zones and to interpose themselves in the maneuvers, in a struggle that became a symbol of the defense of the territory and the environment against military use. That sustained pressure bore fruit.
In 1975, the US Navy ceased its practices at Flamenco and abandoned the use of the beach as a firing range, finally freeing it for public use. It was a historic victory for Culebra, which thus recovered one of its natural jewels. The Culebran experience, moreover, served as a precedent and inspiration for the later struggle against the military presence on the neighboring island of Vieques, which would extend into the early 21st century.
The most remembered episode of that struggle occurred in 1971 and had Flamenco's own sand as its setting. At the beginning of that year, after the demolition of a church by the military, the Puerto Rican Independence Party (PIP), together with the Committee for the Rescue of Culebra, a committee of clergy and a Quaker action group, erected a chapel within the bombing area of Flamenco, a symbolic and audacious gesture that forced the Navy to suspend the exercises: they couldn't bomb a place of worship.
At the head of the protest was Rubén Berríos Martínez, president of the PIP, a lawyer in international law and a professor at the University of Puerto Rico. Berríos and other protesters occupied the restricted zone and remained there for weeks. The Navy ended up demolishing the chapel, and Berríos, along with thirteen other people, was arrested and charged with illegally entering US military property; they were sentenced to three months in jail.
Far from extinguishing the protest, the imprisonment fueled it. A student strike broke out at the University of Puerto Rico, daily vigils were organized in front of the jail, there were demonstrations in Washington and even replica chapels were erected in front of the Pentagon. Berríos's strategy of 'peaceful militancy' turned a tiny island into a national symbol. The pressure paid off: on April 4, 1974, the Navy announced the end of its operations and its withdrawal from Culebra, completed in 1975.
After the Navy's departure in 1975, Flamenco began its rebirth as a public beach. What for decades had been a bombing range gradually recovered its condition as a natural paradise, and nature, always generous in the Caribbean, finished restoring its splendor. The bay became again what it had always been beneath the noise of the cannons: a perfect arc of pure white sand and calm turquoise waters, protected by green hills.
Over time, Flamenco was transformed into a public beach and equipped with services, becoming one of the most visited beaches in Puerto Rico. Its beauty, more than a mile of fine sand, crystal-clear waters almost without swell and an intact natural setting, earned it international recognition, and it regularly appears on the lists of the best beaches in the world compiled by media and travel portals.
The contrast is eloquent: on the same sand where thousands of visitors sunbathe today rest, half-buried and covered in graffiti, the two war tanks that recall its military past. That coexistence between paradise and memory makes Flamenco a unique place: one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean that is, at the same time, a living monument to the history of Culebra and to the struggle of its people to recover their land.