At one end of Flamenco Beach, the beach that almost every list in the world places among the most beautiful on the planet, there are two rusty war tanks, sunk in the white sand and covered in graffiti. That impossible image — the iron of the US Navy rusting beside a postcard turquoise sea — sums up the history of Culebra better than any date: a tiny island, nearly forgotten for centuries, that went from a pirate refuge to a military firing range and from there to a protected paradise. To understand why those tanks are still there, you have to go very far back.
Culebra, like the other islands east of Puerto Rico, was part of the Indigenous world of the Caribbean before the arrival of the Europeans. The peoples of Taíno tradition and their predecessors traveled these waters and used the islands and cays as stopover, fishing and refuge points on their movements across the Antillean arc. Culebra's small size and, above all, the scarcity of fresh water limited, however, a stable and numerous settlement.
After the Spanish colonization of Puerto Rico in the 16th century, Culebra remained for centuries practically uninhabited and outside the Crown's effective control. Its isolation, its hidden coves and its strategic position on the maritime routes made it an ideal refuge for pirates, privateers and smugglers, who used it as an occasional base and hideout, far from the authorities.
For a long time, Culebra was thus an island almost forgotten by the colonial administration, a marginal territory frequented by sailors of every stripe. Its formal colonization and stable settlement wouldn't come until very late, already in the last decades of Spanish rule, when Spain decided to assert its sovereignty over these eastern islands in the face of the presence of other powers in the eastern Caribbean.
The formal colonization of Culebra is notably late. Only toward the end of the 19th century did Spain promote the stable settlement of the island, as part of its interest in consolidating control of the islands east of Puerto Rico in the face of the presence of other powers in the Caribbean (the Danes in the nearby Virgin Islands, for example). The permanent settlement and the founding of Culebra's first town are usually dated to around 1880.
The establishment of the settlement was tied to figures like Cayetano Escudero, considered one of the promoters of the settlement, and the island was administratively organized under Spanish rule. Life on Culebra was modest, conditioned by the scarcity of water and resources, and geared toward fishing and limited agriculture.
Barely a few decades after its formal colonization, Culebra's fate changed hands: in 1898, after the Spanish-American War and the Treaty of Paris, the island passed — along with all of Puerto Rico — to the sovereignty of the United States. Thus began a new stage that, for Culebra, would be marked by an unexpected and decisive presence: that of the US Navy.
From the final period of Spanish rule dates one of the most emblematic monuments in the area: the Culebrita lighthouse, on the islet of the same name east of Culebra. Inaugurated in 1886, this lighthouse was built by Spain to guide navigation on this stretch of the Antilles, at a key crossing point between Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. Although today it's in ruins, it remains a historic landmark and an exceptional lookout.
Already under US sovereignty, Culebra was the setting for a milestone in the history of conservation. In 1909, President Theodore Roosevelt established on the island and its cays a refuge for seabirds, which would be the origin of today's Culebra National Wildlife Refuge. It's one of the oldest wildlife refuges in the United States, created to protect the important bird colonies that nested on the cays.
This early conservationist push would have enormous long-term consequences: it protected ecosystems, beaches, reefs and cays that today are the basis of Culebra's natural appeal. The combination of the historic lighthouse, the century-old refuge and the low population density helped preserve the island and forge its character as a little-altered natural paradise.
As would also happen with Vieques, the 20th century brought to Culebra the presence of the United States Navy. For much of the century, the Navy used the island and its surroundings as a maneuver and target-practice area, including training bombings. This military activity deeply conditioned the lives of Culebra residents: it limited the island's development, restricted access to lands and waters, and generated concern for safety and the environment.
The people of Culebra led a long and determined fight against the military use of their island. The protests, the civil disobedience and the political pressure of Culebra residents and of allies across Puerto Rico grew over the years, in a movement that demanded an end to the bombings and the return of the lands. It was, in a way, a precedent for what decades later would happen in Vieques.
The fight bore fruit: the Navy ceased its exercises on Culebra in 1975, abandoning the use of the island for target practice several decades before doing so in Vieques. That victory was a key moment in the history of Culebra and a milestone in the history of Puerto Rican social movements. Freed from the military activity, the island was able to orient itself toward conservation and, over time, toward respectful nature tourism.
The legacy of the military era left in Culebra a symbol as unexpected as it is photogenic: the tanks of Flamenco Beach. At one end of this beach — today considered one of the best in the world — half-buried in the sand, two old rusty military tanks are preserved, remnants of the years when the Navy used the area for its practice. Covered over time in colorful graffiti by visitors, they've become one of the most curious and photographed corners of Culebra.
The presence of those tanks on a paradisiacal beach holds a whole metaphor of the island's history: the coexistence between natural beauty and the memory of a military past that conditioned it for decades. Far from being erased, that mark has integrated into the landscape and is part of Culebra's story.
After the Navy's departure, Flamenco Beach and the rest of the island were able to fully develop their calling as a natural paradise. Without big resorts or massive development — partly because of the decades of military use and the strong environmental protection — Culebra's beaches and waters stayed extraordinarily well conserved, which made them stand out worldwide. Flamenco, with its white sand, its turquoise waters and its rusty tanks, became the image of a Culebra that transformed its difficult history into protected beauty.
Today Culebra is one of the great treasures of Puerto Rico: a small island of nature, calm and exceptional beauty, which has managed to preserve its character in the face of massive development. Its jewel, Flamenco Beach, ranks among the best beaches in the world, but the whole island is a paradise of crystal-clear waters, living reefs, unspoiled cays like Culebrita, sea turtles and a deliciously leisurely pace of life.
The low population density, the absence of big resorts, the strong environmental protection (with one of the oldest wildlife refuges in the country) and the legacy of its history — including the fight against military use — have kept Culebra an authentic and quiet destination, very different from the more touristy areas of the main island. Here the plan is simple: enjoy the sea, snorkel, tour the island by golf cart and let yourself be carried away by the calm.
From a pirate refuge to a maneuver field and, finally, to a natural sanctuary and world-famous destination, Culebra has come a long way. Its history, marked by isolation, late colonization, military presence and the struggle of its people, flows today into an island that celebrates its protected nature and its tranquility. To visit Culebra is to give yourself over to the purest and simplest Caribbean, and to recognize, in its rusty tanks and its living reefs, a story of resilience and preserved beauty.