There is a lake in Paraguay that millions of people know without ever having seen it: Ypacaraí, the one from the guarania 'Recuerdos de Ypacaraí', that love song sung across Latin America. And there is a town perched on its northern shore, of cobbled streets and mansions from another century, that was a summer resort for the Asunción elite, a cradle of potters, the strawberry capital and, in recent decades, a refuge for artists: Areguá. Its history is the history of that lake and of the layers that settled around it over the centuries.
The region where Areguá stands today was inhabited from pre-Hispanic times by Guaraní-speaking peoples, who lived from farming, hunting, fishing in the lake and gathering. The lake's own name, Ypacaraí, and many of the area's place names have Guaraní roots, evidence of that original presence. The lake and its shores were a territory rich in resources and of great beauty, which would shape the destiny of the place.
With the arrival of the Spanish and the advance of colonization from Asunción —founded in 1537 and very close by—, the lake area became part of the colonial capital's sphere of influence. The evangelization of the region was tied to the religious orders active in Paraguay, in a process of founding Indian towns and of mestizaje characteristic of the province. Areguá took shape as one of those settlements on the shore of the Ypacaraí.
Throughout the colonial period, the area's population combined Guaraní roots with the Spanish presence, in the mestizo matrix typical of Paraguay. The proximity to Asunción and the fertility of the land and the lake gradually defined Areguá as a place linked both to rural life and, later on, to the rest and recreation of the capital's inhabitants.
Toward the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Areguá underwent the transformation that would define much of its present identity: it became a summer and holiday spot for well-off Asunción families. Drawn by the climate, the scenery of Lake Ypacaraí and the proximity to the capital, these families built elegant summer residences in Areguá —stately mansions with verandas, gardens and iron railings— that still give the historic center its unmistakable architectural stamp.
A key factor in this boom was the railway. The train, one of the great works of Paraguayan modernization begun in the era of the López family, eased access to the lake area and consolidated Areguá (and later neighboring San Bernardino) as villeggiatura destinations. Arriving by train to spend the summer beside the Ypacaraí became a custom of the Asunción elite, and the town filled with life during the season.
From that period dates the cluster of mansions preserved today in the historic center, as well as the layout of cobbled streets descending toward the lake. That architectural and urban heritage, a testament to the Paraguayan Belle Époque, is the basis of the heritage value that would later lead to protecting Areguá's historic center as Cultural Heritage.
Two products strongly shaped Areguá's identity: pottery and strawberries. The area's pottery tradition passed down from generation to generation among families of artisans, who used the region's clay to make pots, tableware, cooking pots and clay figures. Over time, Areguá became one of the great centers of Paraguayan handmade pottery, with its characteristic stalls along the access road and in the center, and its production is recognized throughout the country.
The other great hallmark is the strawberry. Areguá earned the title of 'Strawberry Capital' for the cultivation of this fruit in the area, which gave rise to the traditional Expo Frutilla, a fair that in season fills the town with stalls of fresh strawberries, jams, sweets, liqueurs and desserts. The strawberry festival became a tourist draw and a much-loved community celebration.
To these traditions is added the popular religiosity around the patron saint, Our Lady of Candelaria, whose feast brings the community together, and the rich Paraguayan cuisine enjoyed in local tea houses and restaurants. Pottery, strawberries, faith and food make up Areguá's living heritage, complementing its architectural heritage.
In recent decades, Areguá experienced a new rebirth that finished defining its character: it became a refuge for artists, writers, gallery owners and collectors. Drawn by the quiet atmosphere, the historic mansions, the cobblestones and the beauty of the lake, many creators settled in the town, opening workshops, contemporary art galleries, foundations and antique shops. Areguá thus came to hold a prominent place on Paraguay's cultural map.
This artistic hub coexists with the heritage legacy. The old summer residences, restored and reused as galleries, tea houses and cultural spaces, found new life without losing their historical value. The combination of architectural heritage, contemporary art, pottery, antique shops and cuisine made Areguá a singular destination, with a very marked cultural identity for a town of its size.
That set of values led to Areguá's historic center being recognized and protected as Cultural Heritage, safeguarding its layout, its mansions and its atmosphere. Today Areguá is the capital of the Central department and one of the most beloved getaway destinations for Asunción residents and visitors alike, a place where history, art and the scenery of Lake Ypacaraí come together.
No account of Areguá would be complete without Lake Ypacaraí, which is not only its geographical setting but also a cultural symbol of Paraguay as a whole. The lake, with its calm waters, ringed by Areguá and San Bernardino, has for generations been a place of rest, romance and recreation, and has become etched in the popular imagination as one of the country's most cherished landscapes.
Its fame crossed borders thanks to music. The celebrated guarania 'Recuerdos de Ypacaraí', composed by Demetrio Ortiz, turned the lake into a romantic emblem of Paraguayan culture, sung and recognized across Latin America. The song, which evokes a lovers' meeting on the shore of the Ypacaraí, forever linked the lake's name with nostalgia and beauty, and contributed to the tourist and sentimental identity of the whole area.
The lake has faced environmental challenges at various times, such as pollution problems and algae blooms, which prompted recovery and monitoring efforts. Beyond those ups and downs, the Ypacaraí remains the scenic heart of Areguá and San Bernardino, the mirror of water that gave meaning to the summer resort, inspired songs and continues to draw those seeking, along its shores, a piece of the most romantic and tranquil Paraguay.